Showing posts with label violets. Show all posts
Showing posts with label violets. Show all posts

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Your heart is dark as a hemlock grove where the sun never shines and nothing grows.

Perfume Challenge Week 29: Monday, 8/1/11, to Friday, 8/5/11
A week of DSH Pefumes


When I was in junior high and early high school, I had a wonderful best friend, Marti. Marti was smart and funny and sharp-tongued and beautiful, like so many teenage girls are, and we could talk on the phone for hours after school after spending almost every class together. We grew apart in high school, in same the way I was systematically isolated from everyone by the growing random horror of my home life and my inept and desperate attempts to deal with it (hello, cycle of violence), but I never forgot Marti. Years have passed now, and we've reconnected thanks to ye olde intertubes, and I'm happy for that. It's nice when technology occasionally brings people together rather than isolating them from one another.

Never turn your back
on Mother Earth.
Recently Marti reminded me of something it's possible completely escaped my attention at age thirteen: her mom is a huge perfumista. To quote Marti, "she has more perfume than is natural for a human to own." I'd say that described me, too, at this point. I always adored Marrti's mom for so many reasons -- she was smart, she was funny, she was an excellent nurse who specialized in difficult deliveries, and when she was angry at the world, she watched nature videos of tornadoes destroying things as a coping mechanism. The perfume thing is icing on a cake of amazingness I've long admired. When I'm in Houston next, I'm hoping to hook up with them both for some perfume shopping.

If you're reading this, Lillian, thanks for always being kind to me after my mom left. I never forgot it.

Monday: DSH Perfumes Spring Moss - A dewy moss with subtle cool melon and cucumber nuances. Notes: Cucumber, Melon, Moss.

This is a bright, fresh scent that on me is almost spearmint-y. I know the notes say melon and usually that would be the death knell for me, but in this case it is light and fresh scent with the melon no where to be found. It lacks the decaying earthiness I'd have expected from a moss, but maybe that's what is Spring-like about it. Spring Moss is very much a new growth scent and great for warmer weather, so I suspect it wears very well at the cusp of Spring's change to Summer. I'll be sure to try it around that time next year. A solid 3 of 5 nods for scent, 5 of 5 nods for longevity (like all DSH perfumes oils, a little goes a very long way - 6 to 8 hours), and 5 of 5 nod for pricing (1/3 oz pulse roller on sale for $18), which for me was a whooping $14 for what I suspect is a three to five year supply with frequent use of this Fond Farewell item.

Layering Experience: I tried layering Spring Moss with Jo Malone Red Roses, after thinking I'd like a fresh green rose and finding the combination of Red Roses and Jo Malone Fresh Mint Leaf left me wanting a stronger green aspect. I found the combination a huge success, the Spring Moss being strong enough that a few pulsepoint dabs balanced very evenly with a light spritz of Red Roses. The effect was is a youthful and fresh rose scent that makes for nice wearing in warmer weather.

Tuesday: DSH Perfumes African Violet - A powdery, almost candy-sweet, violet flower note. Notes: Violet, Orris, Violet, Violet Leaf Absolute, Orris Concrete, Orris Root.

Well, helllllllllo violet. Attention lovers of soapy, powdery violets. Do not be fooled by the description, because this is definitely not the sweetest or most candied violet I've tried. No this is the kind of violet that once made me opine that violets were hard for me to love. That was on September 30, 2009, almost two years ago. My, how things change. Had I tried African Violet back then, I would have hated its intense soapy powdery florality. Now I think it is really quite pretty, though, it is not in the vein of violets I tend toward (like CB I Hate Perfume Violet Empire or Serge Lutens Bois de Violette.) Despite my newfound affection for African Violet's soapy, powdery beauty, I still prefer those less traditional violet approaches; turns out my nose is, at times, pretty consistent. But if you want a voluptuous violet of the soapy, powdery bent, I insist you look no further. 3 of 5 nods for the scent (based on my preferences, not the quality) and again, amazing longevity and price point (1/3 oz pulse roller on sale for $19).

Wednesday: DSH Perfumes Sweet Gardenia - A thoroughly tropical interpretation of gardenia with island flowers and a hint of sensuality in its base notes. Notes: Coconut, Orange Blossom, Gardenia, Tuberosa, Ambergris, Musk.

The opening is, as promised, very tropical. I think the tropical aspect comes from a balanced overlay of coconut and tuberosa, though the tuberosa is supposed to be a base note. This is one unusual gardenia, and more what I expected from Pacifica Tahitian Gardenia than what I got. Also, and this is a bonus for me, I get the rubbery part of the tuberuse/gardenia combo, which I truly enjoy. If you want a pretty gardenia for a beachy date, this is a nice option. Also a Fond Farewell item; 1/3 oz pulse roller on sale for $14. 3 of 5 nods.

Filmed in Oregon!
Thursday: DSH Perfumes Hemlock - Based on Canadian Hemlock Spruce, this scent has a bright and shining lightness with subtle drydown notes that come straight from the dark forest floor. It's the perfect compliment to the winter chill. Notes: Green Mandarin, Green Peppercorn, Silver Fir, Tanacetum, Angelica, Balsam Fir, Spruce, Atlas Cedarwood, Patchouli, Peru Balsam, Rhum, Treemoss.

 Hemlock spruce, as it says right there on the label. To me, this reminds me of the many, many, many hours spent in Decembers of my youth wandering around car lots full of fresh Christmas trees, if someone had dressed all the trees with decorative balls made of various kinds of peppercorns. In other words, it has a great scent memory embedded, and really makes me miss those times. Though I find it very sexy for anyone, there is wonderful potential here to sell a perfume-adverse man on a scent that feels like it goes with the latest episode of Ax Men. Personally I love it and will be leaning on it heavily when we get closer to the holidays. 1/3 oz pulse roller on sale for $19. Again, a Fond Farewell item. 4 of 5 nods.

Friday: DSH Perfumes Almond Blossom - A delicate floral scent with hints of almond in the top note and warm lily/musky nuances in the dry down. Notes: Bitter Almond, Jasmine, Lily of the Valley (Muguet), Amber, Musk.

Dear Fates, if I'm meant to die of poisoning someday, can you make sure it comes in the form of cyanide baked into some sweet dessert items so it smells like this just before I die? At least I would die happy.

Almond Blossom is an attempt at the floral and not the food, and the result is sweet but not too sweet and very almond, in an almond extract way, not a roasted nut way. It lasts forever, and is as delicious as it is pretty, but not nearly as sticky sweet gourmand as DSH Perfumes Lush Honey. The floral notes ensure you get a sweet scent that runs less toward the almond food and more toward the flower, as promised. 1/3 oz pulse roller on sale for $18. Available for a limited time and quantity. 5 of 5 nods.

Layering Experience: I tried layering Almond Blossom with Jo Malone Orange Blossom, and it turned out to be another wonderful surprise. The dryness of the Orange Blossom kills almost all of the gourmand aspects, turning it into a decidedly lovely floral combination. This is a combo I will be revisiting with some frequency. If you have the two on hand, give it a whirl. Two to three generous dabs of perfume oil to one full spray works for me.

Winner of the Week: I'm not going to pick this time. Every one of them are truly lovely and available for less than $20 each. I am pleased to say I own a third ounce off them all, which I suspect will last me a blissfully long time.  Also, with that kind of variety, you can hit almost an mood, weather or seasonal inclination, and all for under $100. Definitely shop the DSH Perfumes specials and sales while you still can to find all of the above at more than reasonable prices.

"Love is crooked as the teeth in an old man's smile,
as the stones in the graveyard, as a country mile,
but I'll drive all night to get there if you let me stay awhile.
Your heart is empty as winter in a tourist town.
Your heart is dark as a hemlock grove."

~ "Hemlock Grove," Mark Erelli

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

I'm tired of looking round rooms wondering what I gotta do or who I'm supposed to be

Serge Lutens Bois de Violette

My posting my be a little erratic for the next few weeks. Given some unforeseen developments, I am moving back to Portland in two weeks. This means a lot of driving, packing, etc. I will try to keep up with posting, but I may miss a few days and I hope you will be patient with me.

Continuing with my exploration of violets, today it's Serge Lutens Bois de Violette. According to SL,
A perfume dominated by violet leaves and flowers, blending with cedar wood and its cool spices, peppery notes of Indonesian cloves, cardamom, honey, orange blossoms and musk… This astonishing, lively perfume, re-made with a hint of violet on a cedar base.
Luca Turin gives it five stars in The Guide and classifies it as a "woody oriental." To me, Bois de Violette a very sweet, heady, and assertive violet. It is a very strong scent with a whooping amount of sillage, so this is a violet that will get you noticed. The spicy oriental side of it is strong, and the wood and honey make it very sweet, but I still get a fair amount of violet out of this one. I find it simultaneous syrupy and chewy.

Again, not your traditional mainstream solifloral. Bois de Violette is clearly not am attempt to bottle violet itself. It's a bold scent and one that reads as fairly feminine to me. Very nice if you like orientals or woody scents more than florals, Bois de Violette might allow flower haters to dip their tow into the floral pool without smelling particularly flowery. If you're a violet lover, this is a violet that will not be ignored, so if you want a bold and sassy violet that makes people sit up and take notice, Bois de Violette is a good choice.

You can buy Bios de Violette in a 50 ml bottle for $200 from LuckyScent, Beautyhabit, and a number of department stores, or you can try a sample of it thanks to The Perfumed Court.

"I don't wanna be anything other than what I been trying to be lately...
I don't have to be anything other than a birth of two souls in one.
Part of where I'm going is knowing where I'm coming from."

- "I Don't Wanna Be," Gavin Degraw

Want more? Try...
~ A review from Bois de Jasmin
~ A review from Perfume & Tea Make Me Happy

Monday, October 5, 2009

Punk rock girl! Give me a chance. Punk rock girl, let's go slamdance...

CB I Hate Perfume Violet Empire

Continuing to talk about violets this week. I mentioned last week in my review of L'Artian Verte Violette that violets are a tough sell for me. Consequently I have tried a lot of violets out of sheer frustration.

One of the violets I found I liked, consequently, was one that wasn't very violet-y at all. CB I Hate Perfume Violet Empire is described as follows:
Blended from CB Violet Empress, Elemi, Violet Leaf Absolute, Rosewood, Mahogany, and Russian Leather. Violet EMPIRE is an unusual yet very elegant perfume. The violet scent perpetually peeps out from behind a shining green veil.
According to Christopher Brosius, "[r]eal Violet Absolute no longer exists in the modern world or if it does, only in such tiny & astronomically expensive amounts which I have not yet been able to obtain. So I had to recreate it." This violet, on me, isn't all that violet in the traditional perfume sense. On application, I get a lot of mint and rosewood mixed witht he violet, with a little bit of leather popping through. It has low sillage and feels so fresh and new.

If you don't like soliflorals or super floral scents, or dislike anything that might seems classically perfum-y, this lovely green-y herb take on the violet is for you. Yu won't get a lot of violet up front, but if you give it 25 minutes or so, the violet comes through stronger, but still nicely balanced. Like most of the CB line, this is very well-made. If Verte Violette is the classical music equivalent of a violet, this is your hip, independent indie rock take on it. It is Sophia Coppola doing Marie Antoniette. It is a punk rock scent that could work for any woman and, thanks to the light leather bits, would also be nice on any confident and sophisticated man. It has great lasting power and would work in any weather. I highly recommend this one.

You can buy Violet Empire direct from the perfumer or from assorted independent perfume locales.

"Punk rock girl!
You look so wild.
Punk rock girl!
Let's have a child.
We'll name her Minnie Pearl.
Just you and me,
punk rock girl."
- "Punk Rock Girl," Dead Milkmen

Want more? Try...
~ A review from Robin at Now Smell This!
~ A review from Scents & Sensibility
~ A mention in this violets review from Perfume-Smellin' Things

Wednesday, September 30, 2009

A love back home unfurls.

L’Artisan Verte Violette


Every perfumista has certain notes that she doesn’t enjoy. She tries. In fact, the deeper she goes into perfume, the more frustrating those elusive notes can be. As her nose begins to mature, she expects she’ll finally find the beauty others see in leather scents or find a classic rose she wants to own. Every perfumista has something she loves instantly, and likewise has a blind spot where you can try, over and over, and still just not feel it.

For me, it’s the violets. Violets are so hard for me to love. I know that many perfumistas enjoy them and quite frankly, their soapy sweetness is a classic perfume scent. For me, though, so many violets are too soapy. I sniffed and I sniffed, and then I set aside several violets purported to be the most lovely in the land in the hopes that I might eventually come around to them.

And eventually I found one.

Ah, L’Artisan Verte Violette! Here was a lovely violet I could see the beauty in. L’Artisan describes Verte Violette as follows:
Discover the true essence of spring. The secret of this violet lies in the greenness of the leaves, which delicately prepares you for the iridescent aroma of the flowers. The graceful, infinitely feminine bouquet melds into the skin, becoming the perfect skin scent…your skin but better!
Notes: violet leaves, violet, iris, rose, cedar
Verte Violette was created by Anne Flipo, the same nose that created my lovely Iris Pallida. In Verte Violette, the soapy elements are balanced with a sweetness that I find remarkable. I get a lot of the iris out of it, too, and hints of rose. A lot of reviewers think Verte Violette is too pretty or too nice, and they prefer greener or woodier or more musky violets. For me, though, this violet is tempered with some of my favorite other notes, making it accessible when other violets, for me, simply aren’t. On the whole, Verte Violette is a great presentation of violets, one that might be accessible to you if you find violets otherwise difficult to take.

Verte Violette is available in a 50ml bottle for $95 from LuckyScent.

“I took my love down to Violet Hill.
There we sat in snow.
All that time she was silent, still.
So if you love me
won't you let me know?”

-- “Violet Hill,” Coldplay

Want more? Try...
~ A review from Robin at Now Smell This!
~ A review from Scent Hive.
~ A review from Perfume Posse.

Images from L'Artisan.