Showing posts with label aftelier perfumes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label aftelier perfumes. Show all posts

Sunday, February 10, 2013

Food for Thought: Flowers, Chocolates, and Super Sweet Scents for Valentine's Day

Dear reader:

I should be in bed right now. I am so tired. My new job is good, but kind of exhausting. So why am I writing you? A lot of reasons I guess. Despite being bone tired, I'm feeling restless. I don't know what it is, exactly. Something under my skin. A weird kind of itching.

So while the wickedness within refuses to give me peace, let's talk about that cheesy commercial holiday bearing down on us. The men I work with are surprisingly on top of their game, Valentine's Day speaking. They have reservations. They have gifts. These guys got game.

It's probably why they're all happily married.

I'm surprised by how happy they are about participating in V-day. I never dated anyone who embraced Valentine's Day. I was sort of under the impression most people tolerated Valentine's Day. I'm not used to it being whole-heartedly embraced.

So you know what, reader? Let us try to get a little into the hearts and sparkles spirit, shall we? After all, Beautiful Creatures comes out next week, and we all know that I have fangirlish feelings for Ethan and Lena and their trials and tribulations. Plus, I do get go see two of my closest friends next weekend. So let's embrace the love a little, shall we? After all, the Greeks had as many words for loves as there are kinds of love to be had. So let's talk love, romance, music, and—of course—perfume.

First up on my list of V-Day scent selections for 2013? By Kilian Good Girl Gone Bad. Released as part of the In the Garden of Good and Evil collection, Good Girl Gone Bad is described as follows on Luckyscent:
GOOD GIRL GONE BAD typifies a special sort of woman. A perfume that represents a kind of voluptuousness beloved by Kilian : sensual and unrestrained. A woman who is game for anything in the world of love, of desire, of naughtiness.

GOOD GIRL GONE BAD is a composition of fruits and flowers, a perfume as bewitching as bursts of laughter, a barrier moved beyond, a forgotten prohibition.

The perfume opens on the fresh innocence of the petals of Jasmin Sambac and the apricot sweetness of Chinese Osmanthus. But that feminine ideal does not continue to fool anyone for long. Letting go of their demure appearances, the flowers toss off their inhibitions and reveal the other, decadent side of themselves. The Rose of May gives off its honeyed heat. The Indian Tuberose nakedly exhibits its milky roundness, while the narcotic sensuality of Egyptian Narcissus surges forth, uncontrollable and deliciously haunting. Notes of Virginia Cedar and Amber open up and try to assert their dominant character In order to contain that outpouring of opulence, but they never succeed in taming it completely. The tension is palpable; the addiction exacerbated; the pleasure consummated.

GOOD GIRL GONE BAD, when the woman become a temptress, a sinner - when she dares and when she proves her audacity.

Notes: Jasmin Sambac, osmanthus, rose, tuberose, narcissus, violet accord, plum accord, cedar wood, amber, patchouli, vetiver, musk.
Okay -- overbearing ad copy aside, this is a pretty, well-made scent that would make a nice Valentine's Day choice.

Good Girl Gone Bad is feminine but with an edge. This scent starts out floral but quickly becomes a little dirtier thanks to the base notes.  For me, though, Good Girl Gone Bad is less about dirty florals than it is about the sticky sweet floral. I don't get nearly as much patchouli as I get hefty sweetness.  Good Girl Gone Bad is heavy on the amber note for me, as well as the sugar heavy edge of the florals ( the sweetest part of rose, narcissus, violet) mixed with the jammyest of plums.  On the whole, I like it.  It make my sweet tooth ache in the best way.

Any list of sweet scents that could be romantical would also have to include A Lab on Fire What We Do In Paris is Secret, particularly for the perfume lover with a wicked sweet tooth. Another super sweet favorite? By Kilian Love.

Not into super sweet? How about chocolate! First of all, Aftelier Perfumes Chocolate and Saffron Body Oil & Hair Elixir is described thusly:
This romantic and sensual body oil leaves your skin of smelling of chocolate and flowers. Featured on the blog, Brainy Beauty for Product Junkies: "I put this on my arm & now I want to eat my arm... it is such a delicious smell."
Chocolate and Saffron is sweet without being aggressively so. It leans toward the foodie side of chocolate, but the saffron balances it nicely so it isn't overly edible. Instead the chocolate is counterbalanced against the slightly floral spice of saffron so it just feels simultaneously fresh and light. Pretty, polite, and subtle, Chocolate and Saffron is sexy without being provocative, and at 105 ml for $50, the price point is perfect for a lovely holiday gift that will last a long time.

Other chocolaty scents I recommend? Try the spicy chocolate of Il Profumo Chocolat EDP or one of my absolutely favorites, the light and airy chocolate rose of S-Perfumes 100% Love.

You know who else makes a great chocolate and rose scent? Ayala Moriel Natural Perfumes! Roses et Chocolat, originally created as a Valentine's scent, is now available year round, which is lucky for all of us. That means any time of year you can have...
...three pleasures in one elegant flacon: a bouquet of red roses, melt-in-your-mouth chocolate truffles, and, of course - a perfume! The most sensual and sumptuous way to declaration of love. Kisses not included. Notes: Allspice (Pimento Berry), Amber, Benzoin Siamese Cocoa Absolute, Mace, Nutmeg Pink Pepper Absolute, Rose de Mai, Rose Maroc Rose Otto (Turkey)
If 100% Love is the barest brush of a feather, then is is chocolate and roses as a full-bodied seduction. Strong chocolate notes balance against a rose with a tangy bite like the taste of rose petals. It is a dark rose with a bit of...is that pepper? Talk about your spunky Valentine! Long lasting and elegant, like a heavy china plate with a 14 carat gold rim. You can have it as an EdP or a parfum extrait, or even as a real chocolate bar! How awesome is that? And if I had the money, I'd buy the whole Ayala Moriel Natural Perfumes Broken Hearts - Valentine Coffret 2013! A truly luxurious gift for the scent addict in your life.

And if you are going to talk about sweets and chocolates, we might as well talk about flowers, reader. Since I couldn't have the Broken Hearts Coffret, I will have to console myself with DSH Perfumes Les Rouges Collection Box.
PASSION, POWER, LUST, RAGE, ECSTASY… such are our associations with RED; our wildest emotions and greatest HEAT are bound to this primal color. Inspired by the radiance and intensity of RED, my Les Rouges Collection Box contains a miniature (5ml) bottle of all four of the exquisite members of this collection.
The Les Rouges Collection includes Fleurs d’Oranger (Orange Blossom); Oeillets Rouges (Red Carnations); Poivre; Piment et Chocolat – four lovely scents that cover a range of florals and a chocolate to boot! I feel pretty confident that I, for one, will be pleased by own Valentineal thoughtfulness.

So that's it for me this year. Some more traditional Valentine's recommendations this year. While I'm here, I'll also direct your attention to my Valentine's post from last year, where apparently I also talked about BC, and then wrote about a lot of really great perfumes that I still whole-heartedly endorse, including a list of less conventional recommendations.

Wednesday, February 6, 2013

Today you can call me Zelda, because I'm bringing all the Link-age.

Hello dear reader!

Today I'm going to offer you all this list of links of fun and interesting things, perfumey and non, that I have come across on the tubes during my long dark winter of plaguery. I recommend all the items on this list if you've got an hour to kill and want to do a little web exploring with me. This list is lovingly brought to you by me and my beloved elder cat, Terric.

~ First, let's talk about the perfume linkage:

While I was trying to defeat the plague, it appears everyone has released their winter 2013 lists, because there are a group of bloggers one could consider the Five Families of Perfume Blogging, and in case you haven't noticed, they tend to simulcast these things. Instead of rushing to give you mine, I'll give you a list of links to everyone else's and a few words of my own about each. Really nothing like critiquing the critique, is there? Yeah, I'm being lazy. Sorry.
  • Angela of Now Smell This! gives us her list of Top 10 Scents for Winter.  I love this list, and would echo two of her choices: Annick Goutal Duel and Aftelier Wild Roses. If you've never read Angela's writing, she's terrific, and her regular posting day is Monday.  
  • Here you will find Perfume Posse's Top 10 Winter Scent List written complied from six of PP's fabulous bloggers. Of this list I'd endorse Bvlgari BLV Pour HommeCB I Hate Perfume Winter 1972, and Le Labo Vanille 44. I still need to try Prada Candy.
  • Bois de Jasmin's Favorite Fragrances for Winter Days includes a few personal favorites: Donna Karan Black CashmereDSH Perfumes Winter White (Holiday No. 4), and biehl parfumkunstwerke eo01.
  • And last but never least, there is a winter scents offering from Tom of Perfume-Smellin' Things. Since Tom is located in So Cal, he admits there hasn't been a lot of call for wintery scents, but the comments mentioned Bal a Versailles, which I think is nice for February for all sorts of reasons (smexy!), and I have to give a winter shout out to this sexy scent, as well as Guerlain Shalimar, which I love in cool weather.
So there you have it. A list of wintery scents I like that are also endorsed by the Dons of perfume blogging. Can't beat that now, can you?

~ And while I'm on excellent perfume pieces, allow me to also recommend the following:
  • In a Non-Top 10 Winter Scent list offering, this "Perfume Primer" piece of the "Much Maligned Fruity Floral"  from Perfume Shrine is great.   I myself have written two third of my own version championing those fruity florals I enjoy...and then left to malinger in the dusty corners of my hard drive.  Until I can get my act together, this is a good read. It also includes a lot of history of the development of the fruity floral that I was not previously fully aware of, so give it a gander.
  • From Perfume Posse, there's a nice piece about the best perfumes not enough people know about.  I myself haven't found the hidden greatness of Puredistance, but I agree with a few of the others on this list.  In fact, maybe I'll make one of my own...
  • Also, I meant to share this super hilarious piece from Parfümieren months ago about the twelve step affirmation of perfume addiction. It is a truly great, and I am sorry I sat on it so long. (Ed. note: Sadly, this blog has gone private recently due to online harassment, so I've removed the link. It is too bad; it is a great site.)
And then there's the perfume SHOPPING! I offer the following:
  • The lovely and talented Amanda at Essentual Alchemy wrote in with the following note:
As some of you know, Kevin had a difficult battle with cancer. About a week ago, Kevin caught one of the strains of flu that was going around, in spite of his flu shot. Who knew! While he's recovering I need to put my business into high gear, and generate fast income. 
So I'm here to offer a BOO FLU event - BOO FLU equals more good smells for you! For one week, starting Tuesday, Feb. 5 through Feb. 12. 
Here's a couple of options to play with me:   
~ Buy 4 EdP sprays, get 1 free!
~ I'll have a special coupon – Please use code: BOOFLU at checkout to receive 25% off your total.  
Need Valentine's Day gifts? I love putting together custom perfume packages for people. 
As a victim of this year's dreaded flu season, I feel Amanda's pain.  Also, cancer seems to be touching a lot of people in my life right now, so I have a special place in my heart for Amanda, Kevin, and Kevin's post-cancer health struggles. Hitting the BOO FLU event isn't just shopping; it's a mitzvah, and you get nice perfume as a bonus.
I have reviewed a number of Essentual Alchemy scents, so don't forget to check the review list.  
  • Also, from the lovely Dawn Spencer Hurwitz at DSH Perfumes:

  • Love is in the air at DSH! It's our Valentine's Day Sale.

    In the midst of the winter chill, we're staying cozy and warm with the delicious kisses of our favorite softly spicy and gourmand scents-- so perfect to celebrate Valentine's Day. St. Valentine, Piment et Chocolat, Vanille Botanique and our fab Les Rouges Collection Box top our fave picks and to make things even sweeter we're giving 15% off site wide through 2.18.13.

    Just use coupon code: sweetheart13 for you or your sweetheart this Valentine's Day & share the love! 
    I have reviewed a number of DSH Perfumes scents, so again don't forget to check the review list for suggestions. I'm doing a Valentine's recommendations post soonish as well, so keep an eye out for that.
In non-perfume related items, I found these interesting:

~ The Terror Of "Twin Peaks": His Name Is BOB presents a terrific piece on the mystery and terror that is Twin Peaks's accidental boogeyman. Massive spoiler for the initiated.  Massive.  Seriously.  This will ruin the series for you if you haven't seen it all the way through to the bitter end.  If you have, though, read away! Thanks to my friend and reader Anna F. for the link!

~ Dedicated Hunger Games fans found the Quarter Quell’s  arena shooting location on Google Earth. How freaking dedicated do you have to be to search the globe for that kind of image!?! So awesome. My hats off to those District 12 sponsors. I should be so lucky to have such fans some day.

~ A group of friends has spent the past 23 years playing an elaborate game of 'tag.' My favorite part is that the lawyer of the group drafted the "Tag Participation Agreement" and they all signed. Now that's some lawyering I can get behind.

~ This list of bizarre twists on classic fairy tales is at least partly familiar to me (Cinder is on my 'too read' list and El Hubs has collected Fables since it began – we both love it) but there are several I wasn't familiar with. I'm most intrigued by the western Snow White for I love the western motif, and I am definitely going to find a copy of Anne Sexton's Transformations. Poetry + reinterpreted fairy tales? I'm already in love.

~ The lovely Smith sisters, both Audrey and Ashley, sent me this great photo essay showing Former Secretary Hillary Clinton in every country she's visited as Secretary of State. Apparently she set a new record for foreign visits. Are you ready for the count? 112! Incredible. And all over the world, we had this smart, thoughtful, passionate, shrewd woman representing our country. I'm deeply proud she was our SoS.


~ If you like dystopian, paranormal & supernatural YA reads and you aren't already stalking HarperTeen's Pitch Dark Days site and following their twitter, you should be. My favs in this group are: Boundless, the conclusion of Cynthia Hand's Unearthly trilogy; Everbound. the sequel to Brodi Ashton's terrific Everneath; and Requiem the conclusion to Lauren Oliver's dystopian world where love is a disease. But I have to say, I find routinely new authors to love among the Pitch Dark Days collection, so get if you like your YA dark, then get thee to the website and start browsing!

~ Just in time for Valentine's Day, Crave Online brings readers this piece on six loving couples Marvel recently destroyed. I really enjoyed it, both for the couple histories, and for the critique of how hard it is to have a relationship as a hero, particularly if Jason Aaron has anything to do say about it. Reading all the way to the end certainly made me appreciate how easy David and I have it with our random arguments over whose turn it is to do some neglected chore. Also, it underscore that a love that last fifty years or more is bound to encounter big challenges, so be generous with one another and appreciate the time you have.  A good message as we approach the Cupid season, or any time of year, really.

~ Thanks to our lovely friend and reader, Jillian, for the link to this unique fashion tumblr, which provides outfits based on characters from literature. It is a great tumblr! I don't care what you're a fan of – they've got it. Here are a few of my favorites:
  • Classic Greeks like Antigone 
  • Modern YA favorites like Karou from Laini Taylor's Daughter of Smoke and Bone and District 12's gritty heroine, Katniss Everdeen 
  • Harry Potter characters good/bad/ugly, like the loathsome Rita Skeeter 
  • Classic literary figures like Street Car Named Desire's Blanche Dubois 
  • Long time youthful favorites like Sweet Valley High's famous twinsome, Jessica and Elizabeth Wakefield 
  • And last, but never least, in honor of my deep and unabiding love for The Lizzie Bennet Diaries, the wonderful author Jane Austen. (Yes, they have all our Pride and Prejudice favs as well!)
The full character/outfit list is here.

Okay. That's it for me today. Hope this gives you lots to click through, keeping you busy and entertained until I return. Work is busy but good, in a trying-to-keep-my-head-above-water sort of way.

Until then, dear reader, don't forget to read deeply and smell pretty!

Monday, February 4, 2013

Notes from the Plague Den, Part 5: The Plague Girl Bloggeth!

A Review of Aftelier Perfumes Cepes and Tuberose EdP

Rejoice and be glad, dear reader, for I have seen the light at the end of the plague tunnel. I went back to the doctor yesterday because I thought I might be developing a secondary infection. They just called – nope! My sinuses acting up are more likely “environmental irritants” and as of Monday, I should be all clear to go to the office and return to my new work endeavors. Yay! After my chest infection became bronchitis became walking pneumonia and three months of suffering last year, I cannot tell you how happy I am to have a job that supports my efforts not to drag my immuno-compromised self all over town.

In celebration of this turn of healthful events, I will now share with you my favorite of the Aftelier Perfumes offerings thus far. Aftelier Perfumes Cepes and Tuberose is described as follows:
Wild mushrooms, with animal undertones and one of the world's most voluptuous florals. Wild porcini mushrooms and Italian tuberose play a mysterious and earthy duet.


Featured Notes
Top: bois de rose.

 Heart: tuberose, Moroccan rose.

 Base: cepes absolute, benzoin.
Cepes and Tuberose, which Aftel describes as a “Fougère family” scent, was chosen as one of “100 Perfumes Every Perfumista Should Try” by Now Smell This.

Chocolate, tobacco, hay, roses, tuberose, oh my! Cepes and Tuberose reminds me of a confection made to look like a mushroom with a chocolate cap and powdery spores. It is sweet without being sweet, foodie without being specifically edible, beautiful and supple and deliciously, delightfully weird! Mushrooms in perfume have never had it so good.

In her review, Marina talks about Cepes and Tuberose containing something that is a “tongue-coating” 5th taste. I find – interestingly – that I can always 'tastesmell' (i.e. I put my mouth over my wrist and inhale through my mouth, breathing in the taste of the scent – weird, I know, but I made it up so go with me) Mandy Aftel's scents as well or better than I can smell them through my nose. Sometimes I even get different, delightful notes this way. Cepes and Tuberose has this earthy, savory, “tongue-coating taste” smell in spades.

Cepes and Tuberose gets slightly sticky, sweeter on the drydown with me. The sillage is moderate, and the lifespan is....great! Cepes and Tuberose succeeds in long, lovely wafts from my skin where Candide and Trèvert fail me. I have tried it several times, and it is so beautiful. It is unique and wonderous; it completely deserves to be on the list of 100 scents every perfumista should try. Mandy Aftel's greatest strength as a perfumer may be in her uncanny ability to put together one-of-a-kind creations that continue to impress and wow even the most experienced noses.

Cepes and Tuberose EdP is available direct from Aftelier Perfume. $6 will get you a 1ml sample of the EdP. For $170, you can have 30ml of the EdP or ~7.5ml of the pure parfum. I will probably try the parfum before I settle on a purchase, but make no mistake – I will be buying this one. Delicious, delightful, delovely. A full 5 stars.

Want more reviews of Cepes and Tuberose? Try…
~ a review from Olfactoria's Travel
~ a review from Perfume-Smellin' Things
~ a review from Martha of Chickenfreak's Obsessions
~ a review from Indieperfumes
~ a review from Scent-and-Sensibility
~ a review from Another Perfume Blog
~ a review from Lipstick Musings
~ a review from Smelly Thoughts
~ a review from fragrantfanatic


In the interest of full disclosure, the perfume sample above was provided by the perfumer.

Sunday, February 3, 2013

Notes from the Plague Den, Part 4: The Plague Continues!

A Review of Aftelier Perfumes Trèvert EdP

Yes, here we are again, dear reader. One girl, one bed, one persistent flu virus that will not vacate the premises. But! We have cats now. Cats, a wide variety of high quality teas, and all the internet provided video entertainment you could want, plus my extensive DVD collection. Also, clean clothes. After living on campus for many years and suffering the trials and tribulations of the communal laundry room, I really appreciate my washer and dryer.

And speaking of things that make me happy even in my plaguey misery, let's talk some more about Aftelier Perfumes! Today we're going to talk about Aftelier Perfumes Trèvert, which is described as:
Verdant pine absolute, leafy flouve absolute, and ambery clary sage contribute to this "very green" eau de parfum. All shades of leafy green aromas, wrapped around a tuberose heart that lends warmth and roundness to the gorgeous smell of pine needles.

Featured Notes:
Top: grand fir, tarragon.
Heart: tuberose, clary sage.
Base: pine needle absolute, flouve.
Trèvert's opening is so green! It is bright, tangy, and so super green! On me, Trèvert smells strongly of sage with highlights of firs in the opening. I wish this aspect lasted a little longer because it is really delightful. Then Trèvert quickly slides into a dry hay-like note. The tuberose is extremely reigned in here, so don't let that scare you off if it isn't your favorite note. In fact, if you ever wanted to try a tuberose that wasn't all about tuberose, Trèvert is a great selection.

Trèvert's middle and end is more toward that sweet hay-like note mixed with a healthy dose of mint and grasses. The overall effect of Trèvert reminds me of a hike across a lovely fresh cut park with rolling hills and framed with pines and firs in the distance, their scent gently wafting toward you in the warmth of summer.

As with Candide, Trèvert is so, so pretty. It might be one of the most gorgeous green scents I've ever tried. It avoids all your greenery-related traps: it isn't overly Christmasy, it isn't like a cleanser or a cheap scented paper tree hanging in your car, it has nothing in common with a bar of Irish Spring. It isn't overly strong. It doesn't bite at the nose. But...

...it really doesn't last very long for me! I am so sad about it. SO UTTERLY SAD. I can't justify purchasing it for myself when I spray and spray and it's faded to almost imperceptible on me with two hours. Sadly, Trèvert isn't available in a parfum, so for me–and it breaks my heart to say this–I have to pass on this one. Not because it isn't a unique, lovely tour de force of a green scent, but because my perfume budget has its limits, and I can't justify it for myself. You should try it, though. It's really terrific. I wish it didn't die on my skin so quickly.

I give the scent itself a full 4 to 4.5 stars; due to the longevity, however, I have to give the overall experience – for me, at least – only a very respectable 3.5. If I had more money, the uniqueness of the scent might be worth it despite the short life on my skin. Heck, if I had the money, I'd practically bath in the stuff and swan about my house smelling terrific, then two hours later, do it again.

The only review I could find of Trèvert was this lovely endorsement from Monica at Perfume Pharmer.

Trèvert EdP is available direct from Aftelier Perfumes in a 1ml sample for $60. 30ml will run you $170.

Tune in again tomorrow, when I talk some more about, well, frankly? How much I love Mandy Aftel.


In the interest of full disclosure, the perfume sample above was provided by the perfumer.

Saturday, February 2, 2013

Notes from the Plague Den, Part 3: Left Coast Edition!

A Review of Aftelier Perfumes Candide EdP

Hello dear reader! I come to you once again from my plague den. Different location, same tenacious disease! 

At least I am home now. Home comes with certain comforts not even an expense account and endless delivery Chinese soup can provide – namely, CATS! No, they don't talk back, but when even maid service stopped coming to my room and I went for entire days without seeing another human being in Boston, the comforting sounds of my roommates downstairs and cats meowing and general catly liveliness has been really comforting. I feel much less like I'm living a terrible missed chapter of World War Z or some other weird post-apocalyptic tale where all the world has ended but because the cable keeps playing I don't realize I'm the only one alive for miles.

But if I had to be the last living person in the state of Massachusetts, at least I would have gone out smelling AWESOME. That's right, dear reader. I have my priorities in line. If I die, let me die peacefully in my sleep with dignity and not eaten by zombies or wild dogs or wild zombie dogs. But if it must be zombie dogs, at least let those survivors who find scrapes of clothing as the only trace of my remains think, “This mysterious dead woman smelled beautiful even to her tragic and grisly end.”

Wow. That was weird and dark. Blame the fever brain. That's what I'm going to do.

Moving on to the event you've all been waiting for – the perfume! Let me start out by telling you about the joys Aftelier Perfumes Candide. Candide is described thusly:
Bright, uplifting floral, expressing its theme of optimism through sublime jasmine and age-old frankincense. Recent research in the Journal of Biological Chemistry finds that the scent of jasmine is better than Valium at calming and soothing. The sunny color comes from the orange shades of jasmine, pink grapefruit, and blood orange essences. The smell of jasmine is uplifting and cheerful in a sexy way – the perfect blend of high and low, sweet and dirty. The pink grapefruit is juicy and sweet; the blood orange smells of mouth-watering orange mixed with raspberries. The name is an homage to the great novel from Voltaire, with its theme of optimism.

Featured Notes:
Top: black pepper, blood orange, pink grapefruit.
Heart: jasmine grandiflorum, Moroccan rose absolute.
Base: frankincense, oppopanax absolute, myrrh.
Okay, for you literary types, let me say up front: this is not what I imagine Candide would smell like. That said, it's such an interesting scent! The black pepper is really prominent on me in the opening, and it gives the citrus a sharp, tangy edge. It's not foodie but it's not the light girlie note citruses so often come across as in scent. When I talk to people about the gendering of scent, I always like to use citruses as an example of the ways we tend to gender scents in silly ways. FN1. Candide is a perfect example of a scent with a strong citrus top note that would work well on a woman but doesn't necessarily come across as girlish or feminine. I think this is in part because the opening on me is medicinal and a little green, which I'm crediting to the rich base notes.

While there are hints of rose here, jasmine is the primary floral note for me, but it is well-balanced against the incense and citrus to the point that I honestly think it's probably 40%/30%/30% on me. It works beautifully together in a kind of harmony. As for the base, Victoria of Bois de Jasmin describes “the effect of opoponax is glowing and sensual” in perfumery, and I get that in Candide. There is a sensual glow to Candide, but it isn't overwhelming. I'd say it's sexy in a way that isn't obvious or overtly self-aware. It's a sexy scent that isn't trying to be sexy, that doesn't necessarily know it's sexy...and yet, it is. In that way, it is a perfect scent for the scent lover of any age.

A lot of people found the scent to be spiritual. Reviewers comment on the “Happy Buddha” or the “cathedral” aspects of Candide. FN2. I don't find it a particularly religious experience as scents go, but then, that may be due to my particular array of religious experiences.

There are also a lot of reviews that cheer the scent for being happy and joyous. I can see that, certainly, but I don't think that really does Candide justice. A lot of citrus-oriented scents get tagged with “happy,” and while Candide does have an element of that, I'd argue that it ultimately rejects any hint of a kind of Polly Anna glass-half-full-ness. It's a tempered optimism, an appreciation that only comes with the knowledge of the bitter. As Brian says in Vanilla Sky, “You can do whatever you want with your life, but one day you'll know what love truly is. It's the sour and the sweet. And I know sour, which allows me to appreciate the sweet.” I'm reminded of that quote when I smell Candide. It knows enough of sour to appreciate the sweet. I like that.

My only complaint is that the longevity, on me, was on the short side. The sillage is moderate at first, but becomes quieter and quieter until it just...dies on my skin. This is a real surprise to me because I'm one of those people who usually get a lot of life out of...everything. I'm the girl who gets four to six hours out of almost any scent that hits my skin. And with Candide, six hours is the absolute max for me, and I have to hunt with nose pressed to arm to find it. Normally I wouldn't find this a huge drawback except....at this price point, it is a real struggle for me to balance the truly beautiful scent against the longevity against the cost. Because of this, I strongly recommend a sample first of this scent, because not everyone who tries it has this problem. I'm wondering, upon reflection, if the decision to get the EdP version of Candide was where I went wrong (which I will dutifully correct with my wallet forthwith).

The scent itself is very well-done; in the 4 to 5 star range. However, due to the short skin life of the EdP on me, I have to give the overall experience 3.5 stars.  Upon reflection, though, I keep going back to what the lovely Martha said regarding the Aftelier Perfumes line in a comment on this blog a few weeks ago:
I wish that I could find what Henry Mitchell (my favorite garden writer) had to say about the question of long-blooming flowers, but the gist of it was that a peony or a once-blooming rose is often beautiful enough to be worth far more than many sturdy flowers that bloom all summer. The three days that they bloom before being torn apart by the last spring storm, gone until next year, is ample payment for the space that they occupy. 
The same is true for Cepes & Tuberose, and Honey Blossom, and most of the Aftelier scents that I've tried; even if they did only last an hour, they'd be worth it. And you don't even have to wait until next year to smell them again.
I have to agree with this statement.  Everything I have tried from Aftelier Perfumes is so singular an experience, I am tempted to say hang the expense.  I leave that debate to you and your wallet, dear reader.  It's going to depend a lot on how much longevity factors into your personal evaluations, and whether you think great scent -- at any length -- is worth it.

Candide EdP is available direct from Aftelier Perfumes. A 1ml sample of the EdP or .25ml of the pure parfum will run you $6. A 30ml bottle of EdP is $170. A 2ml mini of the parfum runs $50.

Okay. Back to watching a little mind-numbing TV while I wait for the sleepy meds to kick in. Tune in tomorrow for more reviews of Aftelier Perfumes! Now for one last cat picture before I go...

Want more reviews of Candide? Try…
~ a review from Robin at Now Smell This!
~ a review from Olfactoria's Travels
~ a review from Perfume-Smellin' Things
~ a review from EauMG
~ a review from The Non-Blonde
~ a review from Scent-and-Sensibility
~ a review from Katie Puckrik Smells
~ a review from CaFleureBon
~ a review from Scent Less Sensibilities

__________
FN1. I usually use leather, oranges, and vanilla to point out to people that when we encounter these elements in their real world expressions – a vanilla bean pod, a horse saddle, a luggage store, a grapefruit or an orange – we don't immediately think “girlie!” or “dude!” or “unisex!” We only assign these items a gender when we are lead by societal norming/commercialism to do so. I implore you – DO NOT FALL FOR THIS. As Admiral Ackbar would say, “It's a trap!”

FN2. I have to say that the “cathedral” review from Marina is my favorite of Candide as a reader of perfume-inspired writing. I encourage you to read it, especially if you're a lit/philosophy type. I really like the way she ties the scent to its literary namesake.


In the interest of full disclosure, the perfume sample above was provided by the perfumer.

Friday, February 1, 2013

Notes from the Plague Den, The Sequel - Now with extra plague!

A week of reviews: perfumes, bath salts, body oils, books, digital content, and more!

I am still sick, dear reader. I am in the middle of what I hope is my exile period. Middle Exile is a lot like Middle Earth - treacherous. So, to distract myself, let me continue this set of reviews!

First, my dear fumies, to the books! You know why? Because I love books. Seriously. I love them. I carried my nook with me, but I have a backlog of terrific paper books waiting to be read, so I dragged two of them along with me, and managed to finish one of each. Each was a great read, and waaaay better than anything I could get on TV. FN1.

First up: I want to recommend Melissa Marr's Carnival of Souls. This is the first book in the series, and it is a quick read. It is the first book I purchased full price for my Nook, and the first book I've finished on my shiny new digital device. FN2. FN3. It's also the first book I've read by Marr, despite having met her in person. And let me tell you this: Melissa Marr is unassailably cool. Seriously. She is intimidatingly cool. I've met a lot of smart, funny, charming authors, but Melissa Marr is one of those people who you meet and think, “Holy crap, I want to be you when I grow up.”

Meeting Marr was enough to push me toward her books, but following her on twitter and occasionally perusing her LJ sent her to the top of my list of AUTHORS TO READ, number one with a cold iron bullet. Why? You know how, sometimes, you don't need to meet someone in person to tell that they are good people, that you can just kind of tell, that the goodness flows out of them? Marr is like that. She's a good heart wrapped in black leather. That's the kind of person I want writing books teenage girls read; someone they can respect as being badass and who also sets a great example for a life well-lived.

Okay, enough fangirling. On to Marr's books! I have the first book in wildly successful Wicked Lovely series on my bookshelf, but I started Carnival of Souls because I knew if I loved the WL books, I wouldn't be able to stop until I read them all, and there are a lot of other books I already own that deserve my attention. So I started with Carnival of Souls:
In a city of daimons, rigid class lines separate the powerful from the power-hungry. And at the heart of The City is the Carnival of Souls, where both murder and pleasure are offered up for sale. Once in a generation, the carnival hosts a deadly competition that allows every daimon a chance to join the ruling elite. Without the competition, Aya and Kaleb would both face bleak futures—if for different reasons. For each of them, fighting to the death is the only way to try to live.

All Mallory knows of The City is that her father—and every other witch there—fled it for a life in exile in the human world. Instead of a typical teenage life full of friends and maybe even a little romance, Mallory scans quiet streets for threats, hides herself away, and trains to be lethal. She knows it's only a matter of time until a daimon finds her and her father, so she readies herself for the inevitable. While Mallory possesses little knowledge of The City, every inhabitant of The City knows of her. There are plans for Mallory, and soon she, too, will be drawn into the decadence and danger that is the Carnival of Souls.
Carnival of Souls is fast paced and engaging, and I enjoy Marr's wordsmithery. The world is lush and real, detailed enough to keep your imagination engaged without overdoing it. One of the most interesting things, though, is the switching POV, which makes the book feel accessible to the part of me who will always be a stubborn, head-strong, heart-led fifteen year-old as well as the grown-up woman I am (and have simultaneously always been). I had to grow up fast, and as a grown-up, I remain there, teetering in that balance of fifteen-going-on-forty, with my better angels and better judgment winning now more than losing, but always feeling the tug toward the other side all the same. This book is told from the perspective of characters who reflect, in turn, that tension – innocent and inexperienced, world weary and heart-hardened, cynical and suspicious – and yet, all the same, loving. Each of them, so loving in their own way, loving and willful and doing their best for themselves and those they care for with the hands they've been dealt in life. I can't wait for the next book, and I highly recommend this one to any of you looking for a quick and intriguing read.

The ink-and-paper book that made my plaguey reading list was the final book in Becca Fitzpatrick's Hush, Hush series, the appropriately titled Finale. I have been following the adventures of Nora, Patch, Vee, and, yes, even Marcie, since they first hit the page, and I put off reading this book in part because it came out very close to the last book in my beloved Beautiful Creatures series from the talented duo of Kami Garcia and Margaret Stohl, and honestly? I wasn't willing to give up both of these wonderful worlds right on top of one another. FN4.

Also, when I am invested in a world the way I am invested in Fitzpatrick's Hush. Hush, I'm always a little nervous about being disappointed. I can't help it. As a reader and as a writer, I want them to all be as good as the first hit that drags me into a whole new world. Some truly great series that I leapt into take missteps here and there over the course of the books that can be hard to overlook. FN5. So when I tell you this series is tightly written from the first to the last, I mean it. Fast, interesting, more turns than a prima ballerina with something to prove, Finale holds up to the rest of the series, and then turns it up to eleven.

I also have to say, I admire Fitzpatrick's writing style. It is not easy to decide your love interest talks like a 30's noir detective/50's street tough a la “Rebel Without A Cause”/“The Maltese Falcon”/Keanu Reeves in Paula Abdul's James Dean homage video, and then stick with that style and make it work in a modern day teen romance. FN6. At first, even I'll admit it was a little, well, weird. But the longer I knew the characters, the more I loved it! Patch was everything James Hurley in Twin Peaks should have been, and wasn't. FN7. And it just...works! Then by the end (mild spoiler alert!), when Nora starts to talk a little like some dame who just walked into his office and will turn his whole world on its head? I cheered inside! Nora was changed by her experiences in the book, right down to picking up some of the lingo. When I finished the last page, I literally hugged the book, eyes full of tears. And those tears? They were made of awesome. If you've already devoured Suzanne Collin's The Hunger Games or Beautiful Creatures or Ally Condie's Matched, or are living each day on pins and needles for the final book in Veronica Roth's Divergent series like I am, pick these up to fill the void. I really think you'll like them.

And for those of you still reading who are ready to shout, “get to the damned perfume already!,” I'm getting there.

Tomorrow.

For now, I'll will simply say this: there's nothing like a good bath, and if that bath smells delightful, so much the better. So before I'll get to the perfume, I'm going to talk a little about bath and body products.

My bath treat was courtesy of Velvet & Sweet Pea's Purrfumery, who sent me some bath salts when I ordered her delightful perfume Fir-Ever Young. I haven't used bath salts in ages, dear reader, not since before they became a weird code name for some street drug and my husband started insisting I call them something else. But I was stuck in a hotel room, feeling like gum scraped from a shoe, with a tub I did not have to clean myself, so I thought – yeah, this seems like a good time for bath salts.

The bath salts I used were the lovely Terrain, which is described as follows:
A rich blend, grounded in frankincense and sparkling with citrus and geranium, with therapeutic properties of relaxation, anti-anxiety, and stress relief. Perfect for a bath after work or before bed to ease you into sleep.
Relaxation? Anti-anxiety? Stress relief? Sounded right up my plague-ridden alley.

Huzzah for bath salts! It smelled so good up in there, yo! And yet, Terrain was not overwhelmingly scented, which was good because my nose was all sneezy when it wasn't stopped up. The scent was gentle and relaxing, the salts dissolved beautifully (I didn't give them enough time before I got in, but that one's on me), and the whole experience was soothing and decadent. The best part was it wasn't one of those bath product experiences that left me feeling like, “Okay, that was nice and all, but now I need a shower to actually get clean.” It was more like that feeling you have after a facial, where whatever is left on your skin feels like it is supposed to be there. You skin is happier and healthier for the experience, not covered in soap film. I give Terrain a sold two thumbs up. And for only $26 for 17 ounces, I think I might add them to my “makes an excellent gift” list.

And speaking of indulgences, you know what else I tried? Some deeply wonderful body and hair oil from Aftelier Perfumes. I swear, every time I try something Mandy Aftel has created, I feel like the Joker in Tim Burton's Batman, asking in a mixture of wonder and frustration: “Where does [s]he get all those wonderful toys?”

Because I am not going to lie. I saw the label on this one, and even though I picked it out, I had my doubts. I gave myself a bath and follow-up application of Pear, Fir, and Coffee, then settled into my plague bed to read. I dropped the book almost immediately.
Crisp fruit and Fall woods with an earthy back note. Our body oil & hair elixir is in a nourishing non-greasy base of moisturizing jojoba oil and fractionated coconut oil. This lightweight formula absorbs easily, immediately moisturizing, softening, and conditioning. Damp hair is the most vulnerable to frizz: our oil won't weigh hair down and seals the cuticle to prevents moisture from creating frizz. It leaves a veil of fragrance on your skin or in your hair that mixes beautifully with your own chemistry.
It was bliss, I tell you! Pure bliss. What crazy brain puts those three scents together and thinks, “Yes, that is exactly how someone will want to smell her hair to smell when it billows in the wind?” A mad genius, that's who. And a little bit goes a long way with this–because hey, it's an oil–but it was the best body oil experience I've had.

Also, because it's an oil, it keeps going! It lasts a long and lovely time, and makes a nice, subtle scent accent or alternative to a traditional perfume. The price point is great, too - 105ml for only $50! I will definitely be buying some more for myself, and I highly recommend it for any scent lover in your life. It was just...it was beautiful. There's no other word.

Beautiful.

So, thanks, Mandy. You deserve ever ounce of praise lovingly heaped at your feet.

And on that happy note, dear reader, I am going to bed now. Or perhaps I will take a bath first....eyes bathroom door longingly.... yes. Just a short one...before....I....

Tune in tomorrow when I tell you what pretty scents perfumed what has got to have been the sweetest smelling plague den in history.
_________________
FN1. Keep in mind that I didn't have the CW. The hotel TV didn't carry it. For realsies. I almost wept. You know how many times I've been TWO WEEKS behind on The Vampires Diaries since it started airing? Let me tell you – NEVER. That's right. NEVER. I've basically had to avoid the entire internet to avoid spoilers, so the first thing I'm doing when I get home is locking myself in the bedroom with HuluPlus.

FN2. Oh, and did I mention I scoured the whole of the vast and treacherous series of tubes for the appropriate bling for my amazing book innovation? I didn't? Well, let me tell you – THERE WILL BE PHOTOS. Oh, yes. There will be photos. Just as soon as I get home to the pile of packages...waiting there....for me....

FN3. ...being locked in a hotel room with nothing but the same six movies on cable for company really lends itself to vast and deep online shopping. Seriously. That was probably the most dangerous part of the entire experience. No one to talk to. Too sick to really work or write or honestly, even read a lot of the time. My glazed eyes and illness-clouded mind were good for two things – hitting the “Last” button on the remote in a diligent effort to avoid commericals, and surfing the internet for things to buy. I think I did pretty well reigning myself in, all things considering. A little perfume...some shiny new tech-related toys...a whole crap load of stickers.... I could go on, but for the sake of my own pride, I won't.

FN4. You'll notice I waited until the Beautiful Creatures movie release was basically on top of me before I finally started Finale? Yep. Completely on purpose. Also, I am psyched for the movie. Do you hear me, dear reader? I am so in fangirlish love with Ethan Wate and Lena Duchannes and their world that I will probably see it twice in the first two weeks it is out. It has EVERTHING I LOVE – magick, love, betrayal, large family in-squabbling, secrets and intrigue, magick, southern accents, gothic architecture, Florence + the Machine on the soundtrack – and did I mention magick? *Heartsandsparklesexplosion*

And the best part? I will be in Seattle, with two of my best YA-loving friends, Becca and LillieMae, who have both read and loved BC, for the release weekend! I'm not going to lie to you – there may be costumes. Or t-shirts. Or hair dye. Or theme jewelry. Or alloftheabove. CASTER GIRLS WEEKEND FTW! <squeals with teenage delight>

Whew! Okay. I'm better now.

FN5. *Cough, Cough* Anita Blake books, Southern Vampire Diaries, *Cough*. As for YA, I'm looking at you, Lauren Kate. I love and still recommend the Fallen series, but now I always do so with the caveat that 1. the third book feels strangely off, and does not hold up to the rest of the series. (The first book is one of my all time favorite YA series kick-off books); 2. the antagonist, at the very end, comes across as a weird stand-in for someone in Kate's life she had drama with, and those issues would have been better resolved with a therapist than in the book; 3. I was so sure the story was going another direction, a dastardly and OMFG so clever direction, I was a little disappointed it didn't go down like I'd expected. (Typical writer – heavy with the critique.) All that said, the last few pages? One of my favorite series ends ever. Truly. So I still say unto you, dear reader – read those books. Even though they're uneven in the middle, the end is worth getting to. Made me want to start all over again from the beginning.

Wow, I am seriously digressive today. I'm blaming it all on the medication.

FN6. Anyone remember the name of the song in question? First one to comment with a link to a youtube video is going to get a pretty package...

FN7. Seriously, that story arc with the black widow? Are you kidding me? Weakest part of the entire Twin Peaks series. In my head, I always think of that arc as “That time David Lynch got bored and decided to try out the plot points for Lost Highway he was already noodling around with.”


In the interest of full disclosure, the bath salts and body oil samples above were provided by the respective perfumers.

Friday, January 4, 2013

What Would You Wear To An Interview No One Could Smell But You?

Happy holidays from PDX
Dear reader:

First of all: happy holidays to you and yours.  Hope you had a wonderful December full of food and fun and friends and fragrant delights.

Second:  Holy cow! Has it really been over a month? Wow. And what a month! I can't believe I haven't talked to you in so long. My apologies. After a fairly stagnant 2012, so much has happened in the last thirty days, I hardly know where to start.

News of foremost importance: I have a new job! In a whirlwind turn of events, I am left my old job. On Sunday, I board a plane for three weeks of training on the East Coast that begins my training and transitioning, not just to a new company, but into a new field. Or in my case, an old field. My very first jobs were in IT and customer service, and I am returning to form as I take a position in customer service and tech support for a web development company.

Endings and beginnings, they all
mean one thing: PAPERWORK.
Exhausting!
What does this have to do with the law, you ask? Absolutely nothing. This is a big shift in my life and times, and I'm excited to have you along for the ride, dear reader.

One of the things I'm most excited about it that my new employer has no restrictions on scent in the workplace, so I can now wear my lovely perfumes with abandon (provided I'm not, you know, knocking people down with them). And I thought of you, dear reader, as I was doing my interviews only two and a half short weeks ago, and how I wanted to talk to you about all my plans and schemes and future dreams and where scent fits into them.

All my interviews occurred in the span of four days in the wee, small hours of the morning and at a distance, thanks to the wonders of Skype. Nonetheless, I got up and did my hair, make-up, suited up, and generally got gussied so I would be in the proper formal mind set and feel like I was projecting the right attitude. (Though I did not once have to wear painful shoes, and it was glorious.) As I primped and prepped, I went through my scent wardrobe and thought about what to wear.

It was an intriguing challenge, because I needed interview scents, yes, but since no one would be able to smell them but me, it was a question of what would comfort me, challenge me, help me put my best foot forward.

My picks were as follows:

So much love for Mandy
and her gorgeous scents! 
First Round Interview Day:  Aftelier Perfumes Cepes and Tuberose, which I am currently OBSESSED with and will giving its full review due very soon. I picked this because I felt like it was both sophisticated and soothing, refined and elegant, but still warm and comforting. I felt both fancy and at ease, and that's not an easy scent combo.

Second/Third Round Interview Day: This was the big interview day, and felt very "make it or break it." That morning, I laid heavily into the Chanel No. 5 EdT, such that a cloud of lovely was following me all day long. It was good I wore my perfume steel, too, because this was a tough round of interviews. Despite feeling my confidence shaken like I'd just gone twelve rounds with Simon & Garfunkel's "Cecilia," the scent kept hitting me all day, reminding me that I am resilient, not to mention classic and beautiful and enduring, and would survive no matter what came next.

Fourth Round Interview Day: At this point, I felt pretty positive I wasn't even in the running. This interview was scheduled before the second round I felt like I blew, and I was worried it was more about going through the motions. Nonetheless, I wanted to put my best foot forward, so I went for something that would make me feel pretty and happy, something I find easy and undemanding to wear. I also wanted something with a strong personal appeal, something to make me feel good since I thought the interviews weren't going so great.

In the end, I chose a scent that I never get the compliments on even though I feel like I should. I settled on fruity floral fun in the form of Jo Malone Pomegranate Noir, which turned out to be a great choice in terms of personal ease and confidence.

Then, dear reader, I did the only thing I could do: wore pretty perfume, took deep breathes, and hoped that this time the die would fall in my favor...

See ya, old job! Me and
my TARDIS stickies
are outta here!
...and IT DID!

Despite all my private hand-wringing and teeth-gnashing, I got the job! How much my perfume factored into this, I cannot tell you. In my mind, though, it is a measurable factor in my personal feelings of preparedness and appeal, and consequently my success.

Also, one of my new coworkers is a fellow 'fumie! We already talked perfumes on GChat! Surely, this is a good sign!

So what about you, dear reader? What would you wear if you had a job interview no one could smell but you? And what scents do you advise I take with me to meet my new employers while I spend three cold weeks in Boston this January?

Inquiring 'fumie minds want to know!

Monday, November 26, 2012

Observe the blood, the rose tattoo, of the finger prints on me from you.

Aftelier Perfumes Wild Roses EdP

Dear reader:

I am currently captivated by a song called "Marlene On the Wall." Suzanne Vega wrote it about a poster of Marlene Dietrich she kept on her bedroom wall, and what Marlene might think of Vega's life if Marlene could talk. It is an intriguing song about the elegant and coldly beautiful Dietrich's observation of Vega being her own worst enemy in love:

Marlene watches from the wall.
Her mocking smile says it all
as she records the rise and fall
of every soldier passing.
The only soldier now is me.
I'm fighting things I cannot see.
I think it's called my destiny
that I am changing.


The song is about a woman with serious trust issues, a woman who's inability to connect is makes it impossible to know when/if she's met someone she can really trust. Though she seems to be breaking out of this pattern, it is unclear how that will effect her current relationship. I've listened to the song more than a dozen times, and I settled on two different and conflicting meanings.

In the one sense, Vega seems to be unable to reach beyond her own boundaries, the walls she constructs for emotional safety, to reach a deeper connection. The song seems to ask if she will be able to muster to the courage to be vulnerable with her current paramour, to allow him to reach into the heart of her, not keep him at arm's length.

My second reading is of a woman who cannot break out of a bad pattern with a man she loves, but whom she remains in a self-destructive loop with. Whether that loop is one she repeats with different men who are all lacking in the same specific way or the same man she can't break free of seems ambiguous. The point is that, whomever the soldier(s) is/are, he is interested in Vega for her body only, and Vega cannot keep herself from falling into bed with a man/men who have no interest in her beyond what he/they can get from her physically.

I love the tension in the song. Will she be able to love? Will she think well enough of herself to demand love in return? If she is changing, is it for good or for ill? The narrative arch, left unresolved, allows the song to contain both hope and hopelessness in tension, both the bitterness of betrayal and the disappointing knowledge that one has allowed oneself to lose something potentially stunning out of fear.

I also enjoy the (admittedly mildly) feminist overtones I find lurking in the text.

"Don't give away the goods too soon," is what she might have told me.

I consider myself a sex positive feminist. I generally think that talking about sex clearly with your partner is good, that reproductive freedoms are fundamental, and that shaming people around sex is counterproductive to health and safety. At the same time, I think it's worth admitting that, emotionally and physically, we have a tendency to give ourselves away sometimes thoughtlessly to people who neither respect or deserve what we have to offer. I think women in general are often inclined to do this for a variety of reasons that revolve around the historical commodification of women's bodies, mass media messages about beauty image that are anathema to self-esteem, and competing messages about the value of virginity and the desirability of sexual prowess. There is something to be said for thinking highly enough of yourself to believe - regardless of whether this is your first, fifteenth, or fiftieth partner - that you are worth of love, attention, admiration and respect on your own terms. Virginity isn't magical, but human intimacy is a valuable experience, and not one worth wasting, as Laini Taylor's surrogate father Wishbone so accurately puts it in the terrific YA novel Daughter of Smoke and Bone, on "inconsequential penises." Or inconsequential partners, for that matter.

I like the idea that Marlene Dietrich, if she could talk to Suzanne Vega, would tell her, "if he's using you, don't give in, or at least have the good sense to be aware of what he's using you for." I always think of it as the Norma Jean approach to navigating the sexual pitfalls of modern pop culture commodification. You only have two options: don't play at all, or decide what you want to get out of it and play on your own terms. While I find it odious that the world constantly decides a woman's value based, at least in part, on sex appeal, I have a hard time telling the girl who would be Marilyn that she's a sell out for attempting to harass her own sexual agency for benefit and profit. Instead, I'd rather tell her to keep in mind that you have to know what your giving and what you're getting in return, and you better be sure it's worth it it in the end. Also, stay away from the Kennedys.

What does all this have to do with Mandy Aftel's new perfume, Wild Roses, well, in my mind, a lot actually.

If I've said it once, I've said it a hundred times: I love rose scents. Roses and vanillas are the two kinds of scents you can almost bank on my running toward. As a result, I've smelled a lot of roses on the market at a lot of different price points, from low dollar minis of Demeter Fragrances Pruning Sheers to L'Artisan Voleur de Roses and Drole de Rose to niche scents like Teo Cabanel Oha, Agent Provocateur EdP, and Juliette Has a Gun Lady Vengeance to true independents like DHS Perfumes Beach Roses and the now sadly defunct American Beauty. And that's just naming the ones I can think of off the top of my head. Name a rosy category -- patchouli roses, dirty roses, leather roses, powdery roses, realistic roses -- and I've probably got a fav or two.

So when I tell you Mandy Aftel has created in Wild Roses an inventive take on the rose that might merit the creation of a new subcategory, it's worth taking note. Aftelier Perfumes describes Wild Roses as follows:
I wanted to capture in perfume the experience of walking around my garden and smelling each rose, as their perfumes blended in my nose. Wild Roses perfume evokes the garden in our imagination and memory -- the book of a hundred petals unfolding: balsamic, spicy, apricot, and honeyed roses, mixed with the smell of warm earth and herbs.

The apricot-rose heart is perfectly rooted in a base of tarragon absolute -- its herbal round anise aroma giving a nuance of both earth and leaves. The balsamic vanilla absolute and the whiskey-ness of aged patchouli support tarragon’s warm, powdery aspect. Indole contributes the almost animal aspect of ripeness in a rose. The heart is punctuated by pimento berry, lending its nuances of clove, ginger, and cinnamon. The candied-orange flower aroma of methyl methyl anthranilate, the soft powdery floral of heliotropin, and the slightly floral citrus of bergamot contribute a modern freshness to the opening.

Top: rose CO2, heliotropin, bergamot, geraniol, m-methyl anthranilate, damascenone.
Heart: apricot, Turkish rose absolute, pimento berry, p-ethyl alcohol, rose petals attar.
Base: tarragon absolute, vanilla absolute, indole, aged patchouli.
Upon application, Wild Roses is a sweet, dark cocktail of rose petals swirling in a sweet berry liqueur and strong shot of vodka. Slightly stringent or medicinal, this largely candied opening slides across the olfactory palette like a good drink or a terrible poison, the kind one imagine was concocted by a dark Queen with a serious grudge. It is a kind of biting sweetness, a traditional beauty that cuts, the thorn of the proverbial rose that, pricking a finger, sends one off to a dark sleep. As it ages on the skin, the medicinal aspect fades, leaving a berry-oriented jammy rose.

Wild Roses has a realistic quality, but clearly isn't meant to be exactly like a smelling a rose. It's more wearable than sticking a bloom in your hair. It's a rose plus a sweetness that draws you closer so it can take a bite. It manages to be both pretty, strong, alluring, and vulnerable, but without the direct sexiness of a patchouli rose or the delicate femininity of a powdered rose. 

Lots of terrific samples!
And the reason I told you that whole thing about Suzanne Vega and her Marlene Dietrich poster and my general sex positivity being tempered with a desire that we simultaneously promote sex respect is this: Every time I tried Wild Roses, I heard the song in my head. I imagined this vulnerable woman acting tough and trying to protect herself from being hurt and acting like she doesn't care when she really does, and this is what she smells like.

Beautiful. Vulnerable. Strong.

It's a heartbreakingly lovely audiolfactory experience.

So let's all welcome the new world of the candied rose! It's decidedly worth trying. Wild Roses EDP is available direct from the perfumer in 30ml for $170. Samples can be purchased $6.

And even if I am in love with you,
all this to say:
What's it to you?
Observe the blood, the rose tattoo,
of the finger prints on me from you....

Other evidence has shown
that you and I are still alone.
We skirt around the danger zone
and don't talk about it here.

I tried so hard to resist
when you held me in your handsome fist
and reminded me of the night we kissed
and why I should be leaving.
Marlene on the wall...


___________________
In the interests of full disclosure: this perfume sample was provided by the perfumer.