Showing posts with label Hermes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hermes. Show all posts

Sunday, June 30, 2013

My traveling companions are ghosts and empty sockets: My Top Eleven Scents for Summer

Well, dear reader, it's quite warm up here in Puddletown, which means I can once again break out some of my warmer weather scents and make some recommendations to those of you who live in other places. And apparently, by other places, I mean the places that are so hot the ground is buckling and cities are entirely encircled in flame. Some people would call what I've just described as an actual living hell; others just call it summer in Southern California.

Me? I'm psyched because I am off to Tennessee to visit my very own the Kate this week for the Fourth! I have wanted to see Nashville and Memphis for basically my entire life, so I really excited. And since I am headed into the warm weather and packing for my trip, I've had some time to contemplate my 2013 Top Eleven Summer Scents list.

1. DSH Perfumes Lush Honey. This perfume is sadly discontinued. I bought two ten ml rollers when it was on its way out and I am so glad I did! Sticky sweet and warm, it is a delightful, rich experience. You wouldn't think something so full-bodied would work in warm weather, but that's when I think I like it best. It's very sweet, almost achingly so, but somehow that works when things get warm and sweaty. If Dawn ever brings this back, don't think, buy some.

2. Providence Perfume Co. Jessamine. Now here's a lovely and light floral for warm weather! Jasmine is not only pretty but seasonally appropriate, as it tends to bloom throughout spring and summer in most regions. After enjoying this delightfully dry floral of late, I'm thinking about potting some real jasmine of my own for the deck. I've been trying my hand at flower planting and herb gardening this season, and so far, so good. I'm crossing my fingers that my plants will hang in there as it warms up, but so far, I haven't killed anything this year. If you knew me well, you'd realize this is a huge accomplishment.

3. Robert Piguet Bandit. I owe Bandit a real review, so allow let me include this bit of history here:
The first chypre fragrance for women to incorporate smoky and leathery tones, Bandit, ambiguous and slightly androgynous, is beloved by women of mischief and daring, exotic and sultry. It is the fragrance of provocateurs. Piguet worked with perfumer Germaine Cellier to launch the Bandit spirit and scent of the couture runway in 1944 with models sporting villain masks, brandishing toy revolvers and knives. He sought to evoke the aura of the “bad boy,” the outlaw.
This scent is certainly an outlaw, and as I am going to Nashville and listening to more than my fair share of outlaw country in preparation, this is a timely, complex, challenge. It practically defies description by modern perfume terms. On me, it runs into a lovely, mossy, green mixed with fresh leather, oil, and a bit of rubber. I don't get a lot of animalic notes, but that doesn't lessen its delightful strangeness. It is a wonderful experience, one made more exquisite by summer's warmth. I'm excited to try it under the slightly muggier climes of Tennessee to see how it changes.

4. Annick Goutal Songes. Thus summer and every summer since I first fell in love with it, Songes has been at the top of the summer list for me. It is one of my most favorite beach-y scents. Sun, sweat, frangipani, vanilla and jasmine all come together in a tropical concoction I can't every get enough of. It always reminds me of home, and the beaches of the Gulf, with their warm weather and heavy floral and fetid fragrance, are one of the things I miss most.

5. Demeter Fragrance Library Salt Air. The most realistic salt air scent I've ever found. No flowers. No trees. No seafood cooking smells or warm pressed flesh, just the air, the magical glorious air, that no matter how civilized and removed we become, says to something deep inside the body, "Welcome home."

6. Jo Malone Wild Bluebell. I really love Wild Bluebell, despite it being a rather accessible polite scent from the staid Jo Malone. I looked back at my original review, and I will reiterate what I said then: the word whimsical is a good word -- strong, flirty, floral. Sweet in the floral way, if you want to smell like a pretty flower that could withstand a little hothouse attention, this would be good.

7. Red Flower Organics Guaiac. Rediscovered hiding in the back of my perfume cabinet, this lightweight, straightforward mix of roses and oranges is a warm and realistic interpretation with a strong base that reminds me of the smell of cotton dried on a line. An underrated scent available at a reasonable price, I think it is a great summer scent.

8. smell bent She Wolf. My very own the Kate bought me a smell bent sampler set that I tried and enjoyed, and then failed to review due to distraction and business. More to come from smell bent, but I wanted to comment on She Wolf right here and now. She Wolf is a standout in the Northwest sampler set. It is a strange cross between cotton candy, peaty greenery, and hot dirt, like something straight out of a roll in the hay at a carnival. Sound gross to many of you, I'm sure, but in hot weather it reminds me a bit of dating an FFA boy during summer rodeo season. I give it two sexy thumbs up.

9. Hermes Un Jardin Sur Le Nil. Have you ever wished someone would make a straight citrus without all that floral and foodie mess getting in the way? One that didn't smell like cleaner, but smelled like real fruit? Supposedly inspired by hanging, unripened mangos, I get a lot of lemons, limes mixed in, along with a heady does of vetiver during the opening. As it settles on me, it remains light and airy. I don't know that I get a sense of being on the Nile, per se, but I do get a refreshing scent that comes alive and buoys one up even on the hottest of days. For my money, you can't go wrong with a scent like that come summer time.

10. Olympic Orchids Carolina. Hot, medicinal, comforting, and sweetly biting in the way that good bread made from really ripe bananas tastes right out of the oven, Carolina is a scent that I always turn to in warmer weather. It's deeply comforting, but all that tobacco spice and butter-melty pastry makes me think of heat and hearth and home. To me, that's the long hot days of summer.

11. slumberhouse Mur. Dry hay and clean beeswax with hints of leather, nothing says playing outside in the southern summer time like Mur. Easily worn by a man or a woman, slumber house seems to excel both at the unconventional and at the un-gendered. Mur, like so many slumberous scents, is complex and hard to categorize, but I love this one for summer time. It wear lightly on the skin, which can be a blessing when the hot air is bearing down.

There you have it! Eleven scents for summer. I'll be traveling a bit over the next few weeks, but I'm hoping to bring you some travel love along the way, dear readers, as well as some long awaited giveaways and travel trinkets when I return. And until then, if you've got travel recommendations, perfumey or otherwise, please give them over in the comments section.

For reasons I cannot explain
there's some part of me wants to see
Graceland.
And I may be advised to defend
every love, every ending
or maybe there's no obligations now.
Maybe I've a reason to believe
we all will be received
in Graceland...

"Graceland," Paul Simon

Saturday, April 27, 2013

It’s not hard, not far to reach; we can hitch a ride to rockaway beach.

A Review of Creed Virgin Island Water

Most of the time, my perfume collection is a blessing to me. I'm having a bad day, I feel lost or sad or angry or let down, and I spend a little time with my perfume and I feel a little better. But lately, I've been frustrated. Disappointed. I get up, I get dressed, I got to my perfume cabinet, and then I just....

….stand there.

And I stare.

 And then I stare some more.

Everything seems wrong, somehow. Too floral. Too foodie. Too sweet, far too sweet, even my spicier scents. The one thing I keep wanting, Demeter Salt Air, which is basically nothing but a light aquatic, salt explosion, I can't find. This has never happened to me, dear reader, not in my almost six years of collecting. I want to write to you, and tell of you the wonderful scents out there, but in truth?

I have olfactory ennui.

I didn't even know such an unholy malediction was possible! I mean, of course I've seen other people blog about boredom or frustration or how everything seems to smell the same, but this seems...different, somehow. This is more of a spiritual scent emptiness, a vast chasm of faith momentarily lost that has shaken me.

My hope is that it will change soon. The weather is changing; that usually helps. It's getting hot here, almost oppressively hot. Too soon to be so hot. But I digress...

In honor of this hot weather, and my general state of perfume unhappy, I am taking the olfactory fast forward and jumping into the summer wardrobe with Creed Virgin Island Water.

According to the Creed website:
Virgin Island Water was awarded four out of five stars in a review by The New York Times.

Classification: Citrus / Fresh

Characteristics: Virgin Island Water captures the tropical splendor of scents carried in the trade winds of Sir Francis Drake Channel near Ginger Island in the Caribbean.

Top Note: Essence of copra (the white inner portion of the coconut); lime of the Antilles; white bergamot and mandarin orange from Sicily.
Middle Note: Hibiscus, ginger, ylang-ylang and Indian jasmine.
Bottom Note: Sugar cane and white rum of the Antilles, musk from Tonkin.
Virgin Island Water shows up on a lot of “best of” lists for summer scents and beachy scents. I can see why. On me the overall scent tilts toward the powdery flowers, Tonkin musk, and coconut milk. A little liquor sweetness and lime are in there for the few few minutes, but afterwards the fade into the background, as a hint of something that has past but might yet come round again. For something relatively floral and sweet, Virgin Island Water is very light on me. I can imagine keeping this one in a fridge to spray on before bed or after a cooling shower and feeling like I was scented without the scent wearing me. The sillage is moderate to low, and the staying power peters out around the four hour mark, which is on the short side. Normally I'd complain, but in the summer putting something on early in the day that disappears before the relentless heat descends can be a blessing.

Virgin Island Water is different from a lot of beach scents I've tried. It's less aggressively floral than Annick Goutal Songes. It's decidedly and delightfully more complex than Salt Air. It is less traditionally American beach fun than say, CB I Hate Perfume At the Beach 1966, or even Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess. The group of scents it mentally reminds me of most is the Un Jardin collection from Hermès. I can see it fitting right alongside Un Jardin Sur Le Nil and Un Jardin En Mediterranee. Delicate, sophisticate, and downright pretty, I highly recommend trying this one as you consider summer scent purchases.

The prices for Creed Virgin Island Water vary wildly; I saw 2.5oz for only $100. Retail is a bit higher, so shopping around on the internet for this one is worth the time if you want it. I got my sample from The Perfumed Court, but you should also check your local Nordstrom, as some stores are now carrying Creed.

Til next week, my lovelies!

Chewing out a rhythm on my bubble gum.
The sun is out and I want some.
It’s not hard, not far to reach.
We can hitch a ride
to rockaway beach.
~ "Rockaway Beach," The Ramones

Saturday, May 7, 2011

I've been lying too long; I was right when you were wrong.

Spring Time Reflections, Some Perfumey and Some Not

View from the Oregon City elevator
In an  "everybody else is doing it so why can't we?" mindframe, I’m was going to do my top ten scents for Spring 2011, for my own since of personal scent development archiving and because I can. But I already did a pretty hefty Spring scent list over here already. So instead, I’m just gonna record, for your entertainment and mine, some random thoughts for Spring, perfumey and not.  Also, some random pictures from a recent adventure I took following brown signs to historical sites around Oregon City, Oregon.

Bands/Artists I can't get enough of: The Watson Twins, Neko Case, Rilo Kiley, The Decemberists, Fitz and the Tantrums, Fleetwood Mac, Muddy Waters.

Surprise go to Scent this Spring: DSH Perfumes Lush Honey, bought unsniffed and so loving that I will buy another bottle while I still can, before it is discontinued.

Houses I need to try more of: Dior, Hermes, Annick Goutal

Best scents I bought for under $15: A tie between Coty Stetson and Worth Je Reviens EdT.

On the "soon to be purchased" short listMiller et Bertaux no. 3: Green, green, green and green (finally), Tauer  L'Air du Desert Marocain (also finally),  vintage Evening in Paris (go, go ebay bidding skillz), CB I Hate Perfume At The Beach 1966.

If I had a million dollars: A huge bottle of Roxana Illuminated Perfume GreenWitch, which is so amazing I can barely stand it.  At $175 for only 7.5ml, is just sadly well beyond my price range, as my ideal would be to have twice that much at least. Carefully hugs her tiny 1gram $30 sample vial. Truly one of the most beautiful green scents I've ever smelled, and deserving of a lengthy review as soon as I can get to it.

End of the Oregon Trail
Interpretive Center closed in 2010.
Happiest stumbled upon scent love of Spring: Hermes Un Jardin En Mediterranee. Who knew I liked figs? I certainly didn’t. Want to try more figs now.

Best newly discovered indie perfumer: I am so glad I found Ellen at Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes. Not only is she a really nice person, she makes great perfume and is doing us PNW perfumistas proud

Notes I’m weirdly over right now: vanilla, sweet florals, roses. I think I burned myself out.

Notes I can’t get enough of: weird fruits, anything green or herbal, moss, civet, cedar. If you’ve got recommendations in this area, please provide them.

Spring, in general and as part of college life: My least favorite season. Maybe it’s a time of adventure and renewal for everyone else, but for those of us who live on a college campus, it’s an ending time. This year is particularly difficult because, thanks to an early retirement program, forty-five life-long members of my beloved campus community are retiring. Yes, you read that right. Forty-five. So much for institutional memory. It really reinforces my feeling of not belonging here anymore; it’s strange to feel like a relic of someone else’s adventure in your own life.

Among those retiring is one of my favorite people in the entire universe, Stephen Dow Beckham. If there is a person in the world who inspires me to never give up or think something is out of my reach, to push myself harder and always believe I can do anything, it is this man who has done everything and still keeps on trucking. He is the first person in my collegiate career who ever implied my work was valuable, that my ideas were worthwhile and my voice, worth hearing. I had a lovely advisor before Dr. Beckham, who was a great and special man who believed in me, but Dr. Beckham is the one who took everything I did in stride as a matter of course and demanded more because he knew I was capable.

I’ll never forget the day after I did my radio interview as spokeswoman for a statewide campaign against parental notification for abortion. FN1. I ran into Dr. Beckham on my law school campus; he was there to interview dean candidates for the law school. He stopped me, and I felt this terror swirl though my stomach. Here was this educated, established, well-off white man who I loved and admired and wanted to think well of me, but whose politics I had never been all that sure of. “I heard you on the radio,” he said. I nodded, and said something perfunctory about the interviewer having ties to my alma mater. “ I heard your voice, and I thought, ‘I know who that is’” he replied, his eyes twinkling. He didn’t come out and say he was proud of me, but I could tell he was. Dr. Beckham knew one of the things I was most ashamed of in my life, and he was proud of me for standing up for what I believed in. That was the moment I knew doing the campaign was the right thing, and I felt, for the first time, we might win.

It was a huge moment for me personally, and I think it says evverything about how much a teacher can shape your life, helping you long after you've left them to know you're on the right path.  I pity all the students who won’t get to have him as their teacher. He’s the kind that can change your life.

What about you, dear reader. How is your Spring going?

"I can't hear this anymore.
It's time to leave.

I've closed the door.
Did you ever believe in me?
In you and me?"
"U-N-Me," The Watson Twins
_____________________
FN1. Yes, I had an abortion. No, I don’t regret it. No, I don’t feel the need to justify that to you. Yes, I did radio(NPR)/television (all three networks; yes, even Fox)/newspaper interviews where I talked about my experience, which included a photo of me on the front page of the widest circulating paper in the state. Yes, people said things to me, good and bad. Ultimately, we won, thus keeping Oregon the state with the least regulation on choice. I know anecdotally that at least some votes were changed because of my story. I’m glad I did the campaign and would do it again.

Let me also say, that as a woman who had an abortion in Texas, I am appalled by the recent news that the Texas Legislature has passed a bill requiring a sonogram before an abortion can be preformed.  This will not stop a woman who wants to have an abortion; it just adds unnecessary time and expense.  Society spends a large part of its energy policing women's behavior through shaming, particularly around issues of sex.  Well, guess what?  You've already made your feelings clear about our choices.  But they are our choices.  And you won't stop us.  You never have.

Sunday, April 3, 2011

I'm only dreaming again and I will forever it seems...

 Perfume Challenge Week 13: Monday, 3/28/11, to Friday, 4/1/11

This week brings us another week of scents from Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes. I am loving this perfumer, and so happy that these lovely scents come from the PNW. So without further ado...

Forests of the PNW
Monday: Olympic Orchids Arizona - Experience a walk through the pine forests and clearings of the Arizona high country on a sun-warmed summer day. Notes of ponderosa pine, juniper, sagebrush and chaparral with just the slightest hint of high desert wildflowers. All natural.

Toward the masculine, this is dry, herbal. It smells a bit like organic fertilizer. It also has a...how do I put this delicately...a something in it that smells like the musk of areas of intimate skin. It's a very sexy smell, but I just can't imagine wearing it myself. It actually makes me blush, honestly. I don't know what the perfumer did in Arizona that led to this scent, but I can't help but imagine thinking it was a night to remember. Seriously, blushing every time I sniff at it. If someone came at me wearing this, I'd assume I was in for a wild night. Okay, maybe I can imagine wearing it, but I'm not telling you about it. FN1. 4.5 of 5 nods for the artistry, but I still don't know if I'd actually want a bottle.

Tuesday: Olympic Orchids Carolina - A dreamy scent of the American South that takes you from a day spent among sun-warmed long leaf pines, grassy fields, magnolias, and kudzu flowers through a warm, humid night sweetened with the scent of honeysuckle and star jasmine, always with an undercurrent of tonka-rich tobacco curing in the wooden barns and historic red brick factories.

This one is also super fantastico in my book. I get warm pine needles, I get green tobacco leaves, I get a hint of magnolia petals, and somehow based on the combination of notes I get a bit of banana. Not real banana, but better -- banana bread scent, warm and sweet and delicious. I couldn't find my sample of Washington Tremlett Royals Heroes 1805, but I felt the urge to compare them, and that's a great recommendation in my book. If Arizona is pure sex, then Carolina is like coming home for the holidays. And since those piney woods are the same from the Carolinas to Texas, and banana bread is a staple there, it smells like home to me.

And now I really want a plane ticket. 5 of 5 nods.

Wednesday: Olympic Orchids Kingston Ferry - On a sunny morning when the fog is still hanging over the water, take a walk down to the ferry dock and breathe the sea air, the scents of madrone, rhododendron, heather, wildflowers, garden flowers, and cedar leaves from the land, the sea-weathered wood pilings of the dock, and the sun-dried driftwood and charred firewood from the beach. Tincture of Pacific Northwest seaweed contributes a subtle, green ocean fragrance.

Olympic Peninsula Lighthouse
And speaking of home, these next two are from one of my favorite parts of the country. This one is really hard to describe. It reminds me of the smell of old books or a library. I definitely think it smells like the woods described above -- docks, driftwood, firewood. And the harder to place aspects do, in fact, smell like drying oceanic plantlife at first. After twenty minutes it turns toward a more floral undertone, and the wood drops out as it becomes about the heather and rhododendron. Another twenty minutes and the woods come back, this time balancing with the florals. It's a lovely, grown-up scent. I imagine it being worn with heather grey dresses, low heels, pearls, and a loose chigon. Think summer afternoon wedding near the ocean, in place like this one. 3.5 of 5 nods.

Thursday: Olympic Orchids Olympic Rainforest - Explore the mysterious, lush, mist-shrouded rainforest of the Pacific Northwest, where everything is constantly green, every
surface dripping with water and covered with life in the cycle of growth, decay and rebirth. Cedar leaves, green sword ferns, rhododendron, forest mushrooms, wildflowers from the clearings, oakmoss, and Port Orford Cedar wood are all rising from the wet, leafy scent of the forest floor.


Definitely in the realm of "the man your man could smell like." I don't think it smells all that much like the Olympic rainforest and I spend as much time up there as possible, so I feel comfortable weighing in. It's a mossy green scent, medicinal and earthy. It's pretty, but not something I can personally imagine wearing. Well made and highly recommended to those who like earthly scents without a hint of the floral or the sweet. 3 of 5 nods.

Friday: Olympic Orchids A Midsummer Day's Dream - A scent inspired by the idea of a wild outdoor spirit taking a nap under a shady fruit-laden bush on a hot summer day. Notes of black currant, figs, and green fig leaves combine with an amber base to create a dreamy oriental-gourmand fragrance.

Fig love!
Wow, very unusual. When do you ever get a fruit scent that isn't sweet? All that green fig leaf and currant makes this tart and tangy and dry, like the stuff people rub on your chest. Later, though, it becomes a sweeter figgy scent. It's a deep, dark, rich fig, and I can only imagine it being deeper in warmer weather. If Hermes Un Jardin En Mediterranee is a fizzy figgy cocktail, then this is a spicy, highly concentrated fig pancake syrup. I love it. I will definitely buy it before the summer hits. 5 of 5 nods.

Winner of the Week: Carolina and A Midsummer Day's Dream are both big winners in my book, though all of the scents were great. It makes me even more excited that whomever wins the March drawing, which is open until April 7, 2011, is going to win the sampler pack from Olympic Orchids. All scents are reasonable priced and available under $60.00.

"I should have know.
Friends gave me warning.
You had a dream of your own.
Now our midsummer mornings are through. 
Follow your star; it will lead you somewhere. 
Love is not really so far if in dream I can come there to you."
~ "Midsummer Morning (Midsummer Night's Dream)," Joni Mitchell

___________________________
FN1. I feel weirdly like Chandler Burr and all his TMI descriptions in The Perfect Scent: A Year Inside the Perfume Industry in Paris and New York.