I can hear the bells are ringing joyful and triumphant...

Strange Invisible Perfumes Urban Lily EdP

I mentioned Strange Invisible Perfumes Urban Lily EdP on my favorite Spring scents last year, but I'm only getting around to reviewing it now. Alexandra Balahoutis founded her house, Strange Invisible Perfumes, in 2000. Billed as "botanical perfumery," Strange Invisible Perfumes are all organic and fall into a current popular trend in perfumery.

I'm of two minds regarding the trend. On the one hand, I in favor of environmentalism and embracing a chemical free life; on the other hand, perfumery is about making the best scents possible, with whatever can be had. Also, Chandler Burr makes a pretty credible argument in The Perfect Scent in favor of synthetics in describing how they are frequently more environmentally-friendly because they can produce approximately the same or better quality ingredients without, say, having to kill musk deer. However, I suspect the 'all naturals' movement is here for a while, anyway. While I don't go out of my way to look for them, I certainly do note when a scent is 'organic' because, while I don't care, I have friends that do and, for the sake of gift giving, it's nice to know.

According to Strange Invisible Perfumes,

Sincere. Resilient. Untamed.

The lush scent of lily of the valley blossoms

Similar to the gardenia, lily of the valley will not yield an essence. Happily, the sweetness of its petals, the strength of its roots, and the lush beauty of its leaves are captured in Urban Lily, a stunning bouquet for the ages.

Urban Lily is dry and green, a clean smell in a world-washed-clean-by-Spring-rain kind of way, not in a hand soap or laundry soap kind of way. It's green and clean like plants and earth. In that respect, it reminds me of CB I Hate Perfumes Black March and CB I Hate Perfumes Wild Hunt. It also induces that catch in the back of the throat, verge of tears feeling. It also has a dryness to it; some reviewers said this was sort of like the smell of hay. I'll mostly have to take their word for it, since where I'm from all the hay has a slightly mildewed smell from the high humidity. To me it reminds me of the smell of incense trapped within the pages of church hymnals. Which brings me to the other scent this reminds me of, CB I Hate Perfumes Fire From Heaven. This scent seems to be a blend of those two, with the addition of the smell of wet concrete drying and hardening in the warm summer sun.

The other imagine that arises in my mind when I close my eyes and beath in Urban Lily is the color of foam on top of waves, after the wave has crashed against the beach and left a line across the wet sand, like the top of a fan or or the rippled edge of a shell. The overall effect in my mind is most akin to...creation. The start of something new, both organic and man-made, of nature and the urban. For those reasons, it seems very oriented toward Spring to me. It's not a particularly gendered smell either, which I appreciate. I think it could easily be worn by anyone without a lot of second glances, which I don't usually find in soliflores, so that's a nice surprise.

You can buy Urban Lily direct from the perfumer in pure parfum (.25 oz for $210) or EdP (1.7oz for $175). The perfumer also has samples available, as well as the rest of the Strange Invisible Perfumes line. You can also get Urban Lily at BeautyHabit

"I'm seeking girls in sales and marketing.
Let's go make out up in the balcony.
Your business dress so businesslike and I'm
Tossing the blouse over a chairback and
I can hear the bells..."
- "I Hear The Bells," Mike Doughty
(You can listen to the song here)

Want more reviews? Try...
~ a review from Ayala at Smelly Blog
~ a review from Robin at Now Smell This!
~ a review from Scent Hive
~ a review from Perfume-Smellin' Things
~ a review from Perfume Posse
~ a review from The Beauty Alchemist

A Near Wild Heaven: Spring 2009 Top Ten

So I am totally overwhelmed trying to finish what may be the last month of school I ever experience, along with its attendant last set of finals/papers I might ever have to deal with. Obviously this is…time consuming.

Spring, sprang, sprung!

Whatever it takes, I'm giving.
It's just a gift I'm given.
Try to live inside.
Trying to move inside...

However, I’ve been remiss and inattentive, dear readers. But to make amends, I’m offering up my Top Ten Spring Scents of 2009. Spring, to me, is the world’s asserted awakening after a long sleep. It smells like fresh rain and earth and flowers, like bike rides and visits to farmers markets and patio parties. The following scents feel like that to me, like newness. Like hope. Like renewal.

Because I am so busy, I can only offer up the ‘official’ descriptions of these scents. I’ve reviewed a one of them previously, but for the most part these are sniffed but unreviewed. I promise reviews to come as soon as my papers are done. Til then, I hope at least the recommendations and copy text will be intriguing enough for you to try sniffing these. Where I could not crib ad copy from the perfumer direct, I borrowed from Luckyscent and BeautyHabit.

1. L’Artisan Vanilia
A uniquely refined rendition of vanilla, this iconic L'Artisan Parfumeur fragrance blends vanilla absolute with the creamy floral accord of ylang ylang and smoldering spices. Enriched by the velvety base of sandalwood, Vanilia is a complex, multifaceted blend that showcases wonderfully the oriental beauty of vanilla and yet is more than just vanilla. A masterpiece.

Notes: ylang-ylang, nutmeg, clove, vanilla, sandalwood

My review is here.

2. Kai EdP
The creator of Kai spent her youth vacationing in Hawaii and always wanted to try to capture the island's fragrance. Thus Kai was born. The result is a blend of gardenia and white exotics that transports you instantly to your own tropical paradise.

3. Memoire Liquide No. 900 Champagne et Mure Parfum
A classic sparkling Kir Royale; refreshing, dry and subtly touched by sweet berry accords and a fresh lemon twist.

4. Téo Cabanel Oha
Oha is an evening fragrance that combines the most precious and noble essences. Transcending time and space this mysterious perfume will appeal to women with true personality.

A fresh sweep of bergamot in harmony with a delicate tea aroma. Voluptuous roses from Bulgaria and Morocco, jasmine from Egypt, creates its heart of spicy notes enhanced with Guatemala Cardamom. Suddenly, Oha luxuriates in the captivating powdery notes of vanilla, iris, tonka bean and exotic woods lifted by a note of white musk.

5. DSH Perfumes The´ Vert (Tea No. 1)
Classical. Refined. Minimalist.

A true green tea fragrance with a soft and subtle chypre dry down. My own green tea scent.

Top notes: Bergamot, Lemon; Middle notes: Green Tea; Base notes: Moss, Sandalwood

6. Serge Lutens Nuit de Cellophane
Cellophane night? The name was meant to shock, says the enigmatic maestro of the Palais Royal -- though what it alludes to is simply the material used to wrap bouquets in flower shops.

At first sniff, you may think Serge Lutens has gone mainstream. Nuit de Cellophane is, undeniably, a fruity floral drowned in a cloud of fluffy musk. But smell more closely, and the little night music running through the Lutens opus will make itself heard: the stained-glass light of mandarin, warmed by the solar cinnamon roundness of myrrh, drowns the dusk-blooming, indolic jasmine in sunset hues. A slight mentholated whiff betrays a roving tuberose throwing her green flash.

Chinese osmanthus, with its juicy apricot sweetness and suede-like facets, is offset by the clove-y warmth of carnation and the milky lushness of almonds. A touch of lily adds smokiness to the blend, melding into the woody, creamy sandalwood base drowned in honey. A deceptively innocent, multi-textured fragrance whose carnal whispers will draw you into the luminescent sparkle of a cellophane night...

7. Sarah Horowitz Parfums Perfect Nectar
Luscious and exotic, this succulent fragrance features top notes of tangerine and blood orange, followed by middle notes of papaya, mango, ylang ylang and green tea. Perfect Nectar's base accord is a bed of soft, white flowers.

8. CB I Hate Perfume To See a Flower
Delicate spring flowers (hyacinth, daffodils, jonquils & crocuses), green shoots, wet dirt & a bit of moss

9. CB I Hate Perfume Revelation
Revelation captures the scent of a Wild Fig Tree. The prime note is that of Fig Leaves & Twigs blended with Honey and a touch of Spice. The perfume is based on a rich warm blend of Cedarwood, Cypress Wood, Amber & Labdanum.

Revelation begins with a crisp green scent that gently warms on the skin to be sensual and glowing.

10. Strange Invisible Perfumes Urban Lily EdP
Similar to the gardenia, Lily of the Valley will not yield an essence. Happily, the sweetness of its petals, the strength of its roots, and the push beauty of its leaves are captured in urban lily, a stunning bouquet for the ages.

Inspiration: On the first of May, Lily of the Valley blossoms make their yearly debut on the street corners of Paris. Their inspiring scent rings out a clear and welcome message: The return of happiness. Urban Lily follows these flowers beneath the garden floor AND reveals that sweetness belies strength. Like an ethereal beauty living in a dizzying metropolis, this determined lily chases the beauty in adversity. It will endure small spaces, harsh seasons, and changing landscapes with mystical poise.

So that's my list!

And for being so patient with my slow posting, I am doing my first sample give away! Leave a comment below, and one commenter will be selected at random to receive 1 ml samples of Kai, L'Artisan Vanilia, *and* Memoire Liquide No. 900 Champagne et Mure Parfum. Because I post so infrequently, I keeping the drawing open until 5pm, May 9, 2009, which is, incidentally the last day of finals period.

I'll post the winner by 9am Sunday, May 10, 2009 so we can exchange emails regarding mailing info.

My heart thrown open wide
in this near wild heaven...
- R.E.M., "Near Wild Heaven"

Photo from Picturezone.