Friday, October 25, 2013

On Being A Corpse Flower

One of the most common questions in response to my interest in perfumery is one I suspect every diehard marginalized hobbyist encounters with some regularity. “Oh, that's interesting. How did you get into that?”

I smelled like this...
I've told the story of how I came to clutch my first few sample vials a couple of times here on Feminine Things., but I don't think I've ever told the story of the moment I knew that this wasn't a temporary interest, but a lifelong passion I wouldn't be giving up. It wasn't when I first noticed my house was covered in smelly packages or that my collection was worth more than my car. It wasn't when I started carrying around a small tin of one milliliter glass samples of ten to fifteen scents at a time so I could, on a whim, whip out a new perfume and try it on or even just sniff lightly from the vial.

The moment I knew I had crossed the rubicon from someone who appreciates perfume into a true, diehard, lifelong perfume maniac came in one hard, somewhat hilarious slap to my fragile perfume ego.

I still remember it clearly. I woke up one morning, got dressed, carefully applied my make-up, and then completed my morning ritual the way I always do: I stand in front of a large cabinet of scents, trying to decide what I wanted to smell like for the day. Do I want to wear something only I can smell and enjoy, or do I want a scent someone else might notice? Do I want to wear the perfume or do I feel up to the challenge of trying out a perfume that will more or less wear me? Do I want to find comfort in a tried and true favorite, or boldly go where few olfactory explorers, including myself, have gone before? What do I want to say to the world today, or to myself?

On this particular occasion, I was feel daring. I would try something new, an impulse purchase from an indie perfumer I liked who was discontinuing a number of her scents and had offered them at essentially bargain basement prices. I'd tried the scent a little when I'd gotten it, but this would be my first full fledged wearing of the scent. I pulled a small one third ounce roller out and applied it amply – my wrists, my neck, the backs of my knees, even the dip of my cleavage. I smelled earthy with a hint of old, slightly mouldering moss that was covered in aged leather and coated in heaping dose of patchouli and civet. It was a powerful, rich, sexy perfume and I smelled wonderful.

...well....sort of.
With a spring in my step and a bass heavy song in my heart, I headed out the door and off to work. I was bouncing in time in my satin heels as I hummed all the way across the parking lot to my building. I said hello to the security guard and slid into the elevator, followed at the last minute by two women, their arms loaded down with folders and paperwork.

The women, who had been chatting quietly between themselves, became silent almost as soon as the doors closed. It seemed abrupt, but sometimes that happens in elevators, so I didn't think a lot of it. One of them started coughing, and I backed away a little, trying to avoid getting sick for the umpteeth time that year. The elevator pinged, the doors opened, and I exited quickly trying to outrun the germs and headed for a long day's slough in my cube.

I settled in and got to work, focused on the day's tasks. Occasionally, I would get a whiff of my lovely, sexy perfume, and I would give a small inward sigh of satisfaction. I loved it. I felt like I was some sort of woodland nymph, or like my Greek goddess namesake, Artemis, hunting through the woods with her bow and arrow.

About an hour after I arrived, the coworker who shared my cube wall abruptly stood up and headed for the kitchen, carrying his full trashcan in hand. “Great,” I thought. “That dude is finally emptying his trash.” A few minutes later he returned, and sat down. I could hear him banging agitatedly on his keyboard, but I tried to ignore it. After about ten minutes, he stood up again and began prowling around, openly sniffing at different people. Finally, and without any further introduction, he demanded, “Okay, who here smells like death?”

Dear reader, the death smeller was – you guessed it – me.

Titan Arum in close up.
As it turns out, not everyone enjoys the earth smell of rotting greenery, dirt, and yeah, shit. To me, I smelled primal. Sexy. Even, yes, dirty, but in the greatest way. To my coworker, I apparently smelled like something had died. I was a walking olfactory corpse. It was the perfume equivalent of aiming for goth girl reading Poe in a cemetery and instead managing to capture the smell of being found dead and half-eaten by cats after a week of decomposition when someone finally came to check on me because the mailbox was overflowing.

Now let me be clear: the perfume did not smell like death. It never did. But there was something about the combination of my own body chemistry that day and the somewhat inaccessible scent that made my coworker think that of rotting flesh and uncleaned litter boxes. And he was not nice about it, reader. He was on a mission to remove the death stink from his area. I snuck off to the bathroom and tried to scrub away the olfactory evidence with a wad of paper towels, then dabbed over it with an inoffensive aquatic sample I thought smelled like dish soap. When I returned to my desk, he was quiet, but it didn't matter. I was the death smeller, and everyone knew it.

Corpse Flower in bloom.
That was the moment I knew. Like the people who travel to experience the amorphophallus titanum bloom, those of us in the olfactory know become far more adventurous with our noses than any 'normal' person can really imagine. The Corpse Flower, as Titan Arum is more commonly known, is losing its natural habitat. For a flower the can go more than a decade between blooms, things don't look good on the survival front. And yet, I suspect few people will mourn the loss of a flower that has been described as smelling like rotting meat. But I will.

The truth is that the world is as full of smells as it is sights and sounds and tastes and touches. Like all those other senses, scent is evocative. Scent is illuminating. Scent is revolutionary. And that requires all kinds of scents and scent experiences, even challenging ones. We need to have our preconceptions of what someone should look like or sound like or, yes, even smell like, challenged. We need to be open to the possibility of something new, something different, and yes, even something 'bad.' And if that makes me a woman that smells like a Corpse Flower on occasion, then so be it. Let the zombie decay comparisons begin.

And for the record? I love my dirty perfume. I still have it. And my partner doesn't seem to think it smells like death at all.

__
License for Titan Arum in close up - some rights reserved by massmarrier
License for Corpse Flower in Bloom - some rights reserved by ingridtaylar.

Friday, October 18, 2013

We'll Never Be Royals.

Internalized Criticism and My Perfume Collection

So one of the things I've been noticing lately is that I've been a little embarrassed about the way my perfume collection is settling out. I've stood in front of my perfume wardrobe, trying to decide what to write about, and I find a judgey little voice in my head criticizing my perfume choices. “Wow, you have a lot of this house, which isn't very well respected. Don't you think you should have more of that house instead?” I get dressed in the morning, and as I reach for something, this same voice slithers in. “Really? You're going to wear that, again? Isn't that a bit...pedestrian?”

Some days you'll only
accept the fanciest
of salads...
Yes, dear reader. I have a little perfume hater living inside me, and she is a critical little snipe who does not think my perfume collection is sophisticated enough, that I wear too many accessible and mainstream scents, and that I am not living up to my full perfumista potential. This same hater wants to know why I haven't gotten into collecting vintage scents more, why I haven't started studying French so I can really understand perfumery as an art and industry, and why I spent so much time running around the U.S. when I could just as easily be saving my pennies for a trip to Grasse.

Frankly, I'm kind of getting tired of the little hater. Sometimes I think she stands between me and my enjoyment of things I really like, no matter how widely accepted they are or how many supposed connoisseurs would turn up their perfectly trained noses at my collection. It's the same voice that makes me hide my affection for Taylor Swift and Lana Del Rey from my coworkers, to hide my Twilight fascination from my roommates, and to feel a certain reticence about telling people I write Young Adult novels.

 Frankly, I like those things about myself. I enjoy and admire Taylor Swift as a song writer, even if she is young and her work, right now, reflects that. I think Lana Del Rey has talent despite a bad early album. FN1. I find the entire Twilight fandom interesting and entertaining and I love YA literature. I love writing YA. I want nothing more than to be published. And I'm tired of feeling judged by others and worse, prejudged by some internalized version of them, for not being cool enough. You know what? I'm not cool. I have never been cool. And in terms of perfume, I just need to accept that I'm probably not going to be cool there, either. And that's just going to have to be okay with me.

...but most days you just want
carbs with nutella and
 bananas smeared on them.
This week I had a wonderful moment of olfactory delight when several people told me I smelled good. I spend a lot of time thinking about the way I smell and how I want to present myself from a scent perspective, so it's nice when people notice. Part of the winning combination this week is the addition of a new layer in my olfactory repertoire.

A few weeks ago, I broke down and bought myself two of the Jo Malone bath oils. I like them because, when mixed with water, the oils turn milky and don't leave a greasy sheen on the skin. I bought them in the two scents I tend to layer the most among the Jo Malone collection – Red Roses and Orange Blossom. My reasoning was that if these scents were layered underneath my perfume, even faintly, that it would be a nice combining experiment, and if I did not want to mix them, I could just skip the bath oil.

Three different people at work stopped me to tell me how good I smelled the day I layered Red Roses bath oil with a healthy dose of DSH Perfumes Hemlock. The result was strangely earthy and green, and yet also fresh, floral, and feminine. It walked the line between Red Roses primness and Hemlock's less traditionally feminine aspects. One of my coworkers, smiled, asked me if I was wearing something with roses in it, and then went on to tell me how his very first girlfriend had a rose body wash or scent and how he always associated the smell with first love. I love that. I love that he told me the story and I loved the slightly goofy grin he got on his face at the memory.

The truth is, I am a pretty simple person, scent wise. I have always loved the smell of roses. I am a sucker for a good vanilla. I generally enjoy sweet, foodie scents. Tobacco notes always remind me of my grandfather which I cannot get enough of, and I have a disproportionately high number of “beach-y” scents because I love the ocean so much that sometimes it's pull is like a siren's call I can't deny. In other words, I like a lot of scents traditionally marketed for women. I don't yearn for the difficult scents. I enjoy smelling them occasionally, and I appreciate their beauty, but honestly? I wear a lot of Jo Malone. I own a huge amount of L'Artisan, a disproportional amount really. I am very into ultra-realism, so I love CB I Hate Perfume and I have a scary amount of Demeter Fragrances which are an impulse shopping habit of mine. I am not embarrassed to own Stetson for Men, which I like wearing. I have favorite indie perfumes, and I tend to stick with them because I like what they do.

Someday, maybe I'll like Guerlain Mitsouko enough to own it. I do think it's a gorgeous scent. It took me a long time to like it, and then to love it.  And I do.  It's a difficult but beautiful scent.  I just can't imagine reaching for it often enough to justify buying it. But life is long. Perhaps my Mitsouko days are still ahead of me. And if they aren't? I still smell pretty damned good, even if my tastes aren't as sophisticated as other perfumistas.

And that little voice in my head? Well, it can kiss my massive bottle collection.

And we'll never be royals.
It don't run in our blood.
That kind of luxe just ain't for us.
We crave a different kind of buzz.
Let me be your ruler.
You can call me queen bee.
And baby I'll rule.
I'll rule. I'll rule. I'll rule.
Let me live that fantasy.

~ “Royals,” Lorde
________

FN1. It's not like she's the first artist to have a bad early EP/album while she was figuring out her musical and personal identity. Y Can't Tori Read was no winner, and I'll never stop loving Tori Amos.

Sunday, October 13, 2013

Is it gonna be the best time or am I just saying so?

Dear reader,

I was doing a tally recently, and I realized I have traveled more this year than ever before in my life. For the purposes of record keeping, I though we'd do a little review:
  • January:    Boston for job training
  • February:  Seattle to visit LillieMae & Becca
  • March:      The Dalles for my birthday
  • May:          Port Angeles/Forks/Port Townsend/Olympia for things with David's family and writing
  • July:          Nashville to see Kate; Boston for the company on-site; Boston/New Haven for Jason and Jill's wedding; Maine for vacation with David
  • September: Nashville to see Kate
  • October:    Boston for work and to see Jill; Chicago to see LillieMae and Chad
  • November: Seattle to see Becca
  • December: A week at the Oregon Coast with David, Becca, Steven, and Kate
This doesn't even count my random trips to the coast. If 2013 has a theme, it appears to be that I cannot keep still. I was thinking recently that I've been feeling a little traveled out, and now I know why. I think for the rest of the year I'll be content to keep closer to home, though my intense yearning for the Olympic Peninsula tells me that I'll probably head that direction before my birthday.

What does all this running around mean? Well, for one thing, it means that I desperately owe my brother a trip home. It also means that I haven't been as present here as I'd like. It's been tough, particularly given that I've also had a new job this year and the learning curve was, and is, steep. I love what I do now, though, which is a huge gift. As afraid as I am to say it, dear reader, I'm happier than I have been in a long time.

At the same time, I've been entering a new phase of my perfume collecting. I feel like my tastes are starting to settle. I no longer feel that unquenchable urge to buy every single thing I smell that I like. I'm starting to look at my collection and feel like it's time to pare down a bit, time to give or trade away things I'm not really using to a better home.

Feminine Things. has been going for a little over five years now. I still can't believe that. I never imagined when I started this blog what a gift it would be. I've met so many lovely people, I've grown in olfactory experience, and I have enjoyed the crap out of these five years. I've been thinking a lot, though, about if I'm doing as good as job for you as I should be talking about my perfumed life. And I think, if I'm honest, the answer is no.

I have no intentions of closing up shop. In fact, I'm working to make a commitment to myself to post at least once a week, and I will continue to review perfumes on what I hope is a regular basis. Lord knows I have enough unexplored samples in my backlog that I could keep going for years. But I've also been thinking that I might write a bit more about the ways perfume plays into my day-to-day life. I've been thinking I might focus more on the way I interact with scents and other people instead of sticking strictly to reviews (which, let's face it, I never really stuck to very well). I hope this slight shift in focus will be okay with you dear reader. I, for one, am excited about it.

Thanks, as always, for reading. I appreciate every single one of you. And I hope you'll keep reading.

Until next time.

"It really was about driving--
not fame, not wealth,
not driving away from myself.
It's just myself drove away from me.
Now I gotta get it back and it goes so fast, 
so I am traveling again.
Sitting at the all-nite, picking up a pen...
And I'm afraid.
Oh, was there any good reason that I had to go
when all I know is I am all alone again?
And you are the ghost town, and I am the heartland.
And I can say, oh, 
that's a very good reason that I had to go, 
but now all I know is I can never come back.
And I will never go back."
~ "Traveling Again," Dar Williams